Author: woodshoplifepodcast

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Sean

1) Recall an instance when you messed up at a critical step in a build. Then describe what you did to shake off the setback, and what if anything, you did to save the project? Michael

2) Hey guys, I have a question about “chasing the burr” when sharpening plane irons.

I use a veritas mark II guide and get a great polish on my PM-V11 plane irons with a 12,000 grit Shapton stone. After the microbevel has a consistent sheen all the way across, I take the iron out of the guide and use the ruler trick to remove the burr. I’ve tried swiping back and forth just once all the way up to 7 or 8 times.

Sometimes I can shave my forearm hairs at that point, but often have to go to a strop for a few passes before doing the ruler trick again on the 12,000 grit stone.

Since I primarily use bevel up planes with differing blade angles, I’d really prefer not to have to use the strop because it’s hard for me to tell what angle I’m at when stropping freehand.

Do you guys have any advice that can help me remove the burr without having to chase it? Damon

Huy

1) I’m moving to a new basement shop with no windows. My concern is about overhead lighting.

Did you use program to help layout of design?  I’m working on tool and dust collector now.

Also I’m leaning to 4’ LED at 5k color.  Suggestions?  Thanks, Chris Hough

2) My current project required extensive use of a tongue and groove bit set (specifically the Freud adjustable kit) to make siding and flooring. My next project is a set of cabinets for my laundry room (lowers, uppers, and a full-height pantry). Shaker-style, no profiles on the cope-and-stick frames. Is there any reason I shouldn’t / can’t use the T&G set to route the rails and stiles for the cabinet doors and frames, and should purchase a set with a more “refined” profile? I like the Freud kit, you can really dial in the fit, especially for veneered center panels, but all the cool kids on the interwebs seem to use specific, profiled bits. I should mention I saw Guy did a video with an adjustable set, but you know what they say – don’t trust anyone over 40 (I’m 44). Regardless there are 3 of you, so death match over it or something.

The cabinets will be made of hard maple which I know is a P.I.T.A. to work with and route cleanly, but I got a tree in the kiln and the T&G I just finished was over 1000 linear feet of Black Locust, so whatever I do will be relatively easy. Frame of reference – Huy, the Honey Locust you had a hard time on your daughter’s…bassinet(?) with is 1580lbf Janka. Black Locust is 1700. Hard Maple – pffft only 1450. Cherry/Walnut right around 1000.

Thanks for the advice. I’m starting on these in early December, so I’ll probably use whatever answer you provide in early January (in case your recent requests for questions have resulted in a backlog). Thanks for keeping it real. Tom

Guy

1) I have a question about cleaning my 3 HP dust collector with dual canisters. I have the Grizz G0562 but I assume that the Jet, Powermatic and other brands similar models are maintained the same. How often, if ever, should I clean the canisters and how best to do that? I recently gave my shop the semiannual leaf blower clean and when I passed the blower in front of the canisters I saw a huge amount of fine dust drop down into the bag. I somewhat often spin the handle on top of the canister but that doesn’t seem to release anything noticable. Thanks fellas, keep up the great work! Jeremy

2) Enjoy the podcast and this is the second time I’ve submitted a question.  You addressed my first question very well so let’s see if we can go 2 for 2.
I hear you guys, especially Guy, touting the benefits of shellac.  I’m not feeling the love personally.  Now I don’t use flakes and mix my own which may be the problem.  I use the Zinzer product and brush it on.  I have trouble with uneven coats, some areas drying too fast keeping me from working with a wet edge.  Lots of runs and just generally uneven and ugly.  I hear you talking about spraying which I can do but haven’t tried that yet.  When spraying what do you use to clean the sprayer?  I’m using ammonia per instructions to clean my brushes but not thrilled with using it on the sprayer.
Do I just need to start mixing my own to get a decent finish?  Also the Zinzer leaves too much of a glossy finish, how do I get more satin? Tom

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Huy

1) Gentlemen- Had two questions, figured I would break them into two missives to keep it organized. Again, thank you for podcast.

What are some non-tool, non-woodworking-related “things” that make your time in the shop more enjoyable or productive? For example, for me, it might be my Sirius XM or Amazon Music subscriptions, pot, or the cage I keep my children in. Huy, in your old shop, maybe your mini-split. Do you have anything like that? If you say “blue tape” Mike Pekovich will eat your soul. Tom

2) I’m cutting a 7×5” opening into the countertop of a washer/dryer surround made of 3/4” walnut plywood, in order to access the water shut off if ever needed.

Anyways, I’d ultimately like to figure out a way to cut the opening and reuse the off-cut piece as the new “lid” for the opening. I have a 1/8” spiral trim bit for my router and thought to plunge it down to begin the cut… then follow the template I made.

I feel like there not a lot of room for error here… any suggestions for cutting openings in order to grain match and reuse the off-cut piece?

Thanks! Chris

Guy

1) Hey guys, Figured I’d ask your opinion on shop ceiling heights.  I’ve been planning on building a new detached shop/garage next year.  My original design is a shed roof with an interior height of  12’ on the high side and 9’ on the low side.

 But recently I’ve been thinking  maybe a gable roof with a dormer would be nice. Which could make room for a loft however the ceiling height would end  up around 9’ or 10’.

Other than stacking lumber vertically, I don’t see the advantage of 12’ ceilings. Side note, I was planning on running some dust collection through the slab floor. Thanks as always, Jesse Beechland Furniture

2) I usually build cabinets with doors and drawers overlapping the face frame. However I would like to inset the drawers on a pair of Shaker style side tables that I am building. How much gap (1/16″, 1/8″ should I plan for between the drawers and face frame. Drawer face is just under 6″ wide. I live in the Intermountain West and it remains pretty dry all year.

After I get the position set, any tips to temporarily hold drawer faces in position on the drawers until I can install screws from the inside? Wild Horse Woodworking

3) I’ve gotten a couple requests from family members wanting some items with the “modern farmhouse” look – specifically rough-sawn boards for some of the ‘show’ faces.  Given that most of the tools in my shop were purchased with the intention of making wood nice and smooth and square… I was wondering if you have any tips/tricks for intentionally creating a rough-sawn look on boards. Thanks, Monte

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Sean

1)Wanted to start out by saying thank you for making my 30 min drive to and from work some of the most enjoyable and informative time of my day. My question is regarding lumber storage; I have a small one car garage shop that has a slight twist from the norm. Though it is a “garage” it is built over a basement and has a thick wooden floor. The basement space is unused and is connected to the basement of the house via a door. Do you guys think the atmospheric conditions in the basement would differ enough from the above garage space as to cause issues if I used it for my lumber storage area. My shop is well organized but pretty tight. I’ll have storage in the shop for smaller wood and I have a dedicated shelve system under my miter saw station to store all the parts for a single project minus larger sheet goods. I want to use the basement to keep 200-300 board feet to allow it to acclimatize to my shop. Side note, the basement space under the garage has a small garage door for lawnmower storage so air transfer will be similar to the garage above.

I know Guy I’ll comment so here is the answer, no I don’t park my car over the basement on the wooden floor. Thanks guys and keep up the great work. Brian

2) Hey guys, love the podcast. You guy’s, all, have jointer/planers with carbide cutter heads. What kind of finish are you getting with these? Is scraping or sanding still needed for a final finish, or are your parts ready for finish? Are these cutter heads, all they are cracked up to be? Ken

Guy

1) Thanks the great podcast!  I’ve been catching up on them recently; not quite all the way though.  Haven’t heard Guy use ‘specificity’ for a while, so if you could see to that I’d appreciate it! 😉

This question is about pocket hole joints and the need for glue – or not.  Given that pocket hole joints most commonly involve butt joints, i.e. short grain to long grain, is it really worth adding glue to the mix?  Part of me wonders whether with plywood having alternating grain direction to the layers might offset that a little?  I realize that it probably doesn’t hurt anything in the long run, but it seems like it just makes everything more slippery and difficult to align. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks and keep up the good work, Monte

2) I’m interested in what you’d recommend for a beginner-friendly spray finish setup for occasional use on projects ranging from small boxes on up to possibly cabinets – if it’s even feasible for one setup to cover that kind of range.  If not, what would you recommend for one vs. the other. Thanks and keep up the great work, Monte

Huy

1) So it seems every time I install hinges there is some issue with them, whether it’s a lid not closing flush, a door that swings open, or spacing around a door not being consistent. I will qualify that I rarely if ever use “quality” hinges. I’m more likely to use home center or the cheaper Rockler/Woodcraft options.

Can you give any advice on having the best success with hinges? Both by hand and using power tools, please. I consider myself a decent woodworker but this continues to be an issue for me. Peter

2) I have been binge listening to your podcasts for the last several weeks and I am loving it. I love the format (especially compared to the other podcasts out there). I have learned a lot from listening to you as a new wood worker. I finally found and went to a hardwood dealer near me and bought some beautiful 5/4 and 8/4cherry. I put it on my lumber rack to acclimate to my shop. They are on a Bora horizontal rack. Do you recommend sticking them to allow air flow all around or should I just 
stack one on top of the other? I look forward to your next show and hopefully I make it.

Thanks,
Jim

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Sean

1) Can we talk about chisels? I know I need to get some in order to start inlaying, but I’m struggling to spot the differences (other than price) between chisels. I’m happy to sharpen my own before use. Bearing that in mind, what features should I look for? What do you each use? Why are some chisels SO expensive? Chris

2) I am Gøran from Nomad Makes on Youtube and Instagram. I am currently on my 3rd binge listen on the podcast and enjoy it immensely.

I recently watched Sean’s video an making the William and Mary Highboy and noticed him using carbide tipped tools when turning.

I know Guy has said he is not a very proficient turner. And Sean also asked the viewers to go easy in that video. However you guys turn very well for being «not proficient» and only turning occasionally. Which is why I thought you would be perfect for answering this question, as I really don’t turn that often either.

Excluding a Tormek style grinder, since I don’t have the space. My shop is 132ft2 and I have crammed in a proper cabinet saw in that space. I am considering learning to sharpen the turning tools (gauges and all) by hand or getting some with replaceable carbide tips.

What do you think would be the pros and cons?

Note that I already own a normal (not carbide) roughing gouge and 5 more turning doohickeys.

Thanks and keep up the good work.
Cheers from Bergen, Norway.

Huy

1) My Dewalt 735 planer is occasionally having issues feeding my lumber through. There will be times where it stops feeding and I try to assist it through by pushing a little or pulling from the outfeed side, although that doesn’t feel the safest. It may stop 4 or 5 times in the course of one board. It will likely leave the board with black lines across the width of the board and sometimes cause divots where the planer ate up more wood than it should have. I assume this is an issue with the rollers on the inside. I try to get rid of extra wood chips in there (I am using a DC too) and I’ve also tried mineral spirits on the rollers. Do you guys have any solutions? Matthew

2) Hey Guy, Huy, and Sean,
I recently picked up some used hand tools while on vacation on the northern coast of Maine. I picked up a 24” hand saw, a Stanley 78 rabbet plane, and a sharpening stone in a custom fit wooden box (not as nice as Sean’s sharpening station). The two sides of the sharpening some are labeled “fine” and “course”. How can I tell if they are oil stones or water stones, and if they are oil stones, what type of oil should I use? The stone looks to be mostly gray (that may just be residual steel) but might have a brown or reddish hue to them.
Additional question, if they are oil stones and I use water will that cause damage? Same question if they are water stones and I use oil. Thank you for the best Woodworking podcast.
Joshua

Guy

1) Hey Guys. Jig question for you: when do you decide on whether to keep a shop made jig or pitch it in the trash? I like saving jigs that I plan on using again but I’m starting to run out of wall space to hang them. Is there a category / type of jig that you’ll make over and over vs one where you’ll try to make it once to keep for years? Ben

2) Hi, thank you for the time you invest in this excellent podcast!

I have a question about drawers and would like to invite you to tackle this subject quite broadly:
what is  the type you usually install in fine furniture, in workshop furniture,…

Can you give tips on how to fit them correctly?

What is your favorite drawer construction method?

I’m asking this question in this way because in the past year I made and installed two different cabinets (including drawers). On these builds I used a gripless push-to-open type mechanism. I’m pleased with it altough it was a bit of work to get the fronts lining up correctly. Since this build I realised this sort of work can be rather tricky and now I would like to hear your take on it!

Thanks!
Bart

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Sean

1) How do you guys remove remove squeeze out on inside corners? Let’s assume that you forgot to do any prep work for squeeze out. Is the only option short repetitive tedious strokes with sandpaper and scrapers? It seems like any other  sanding options leave cross grain scratches. Blue bees woodworking

2)Hi guys – Watching YouTube videos I see more and more people using dust masks / breathing apparatus these days.
As an old guy ( I’m even older than Guy ) this equipment  was never available or even thought of many years ago, perhaps we would slip on some safety glasses and call it quits. I must confess a lot of my pottering around in the shed is done with just a pair of thongs ( I think maybe in the US you call them flip flops)
edit: I don’t want you guys thinking I’m wandering around my shed in a g-string ( thong / thongs), translations between countries varies . (I live in Australia)
Anyways these days I see people wearing breathing masks / filters/ respirators that start from a simple mouth covering such as a mask to outrageously looking respirators that look like something from a Star Wars movie set.
Do you guys use breathing protection ? If so, which type and your thoughts behind your choices
PS: I’m older than Guy and don’t own a SawStop, please answer as soon as you can as my time on earth is limited

Regards
Geoff

Guy

1)I have a question regarding cutting and joining 2x 45 degree angles. My question mostly applies to using hardwood, not plywood and thicker stock, like 6/4 and 8/4 for things like a waterfall style table or bench.

I have the FeStool tracksaw, which is what I’ve used to cut my 45s. I find that it’s pretty dialed in when I check the angle after the cut, but for some reason when I join the 2 45s it’s always a few degrees off from 90. For what it’s worth, I join the 45s w dominos. I’m just having difficulty getting a perfectly even/square joint.

Don’t really know if it’s a clamping or cutting issue to be honest.

Any suggestions on clamping or cutting that could Help w this issue?

(I’m not opposed to making a table saw sled just for when cutting 45s, but that’s not really an option for larger pieces) – Byran

2) Hey guys, thanks for answering my last question, I thought I’d return with another!

My question is about water based finishes and HVLP spraying. I’ve been looking at buying a Fuji sprayer but unsure if it’s suitable and also what stage to go for?

I have a small shop and feel HVLP is the way to go although I’ve been advised to go for an airless system instead

Mainly be spraying water based paint finishes, but again unsure if this is suitable with HVLP?

Also use a lot of Polyx osmo oil, is this suitable to be sprayed? -Mike

Huy

1)For this question. I have a 4ft by 4ft bench.  You guessed…. 2×4 frame screwed and glued to 4×4 legs with 1 sheet of 23/32 ply wood (cut in half hence the 4×4 ft top) screwed down.  I did not glue the top.  My thought was i can change/flip them if one sides gets beat up.

There is a slight crown in my bench top.  The center is a bit higher then the edges and the corners are lowest.  What are your suggestions on on flatting this out. 

It become a problem mostly hand planing as the corner is lower, and the work piece tips up. Thank you, Scott

2) Hello fellas, this is Garrett Roberson from HMR Custom Woodcraft.  I have a question about building a 36″ wide by 72″ long wall hanging that will go up behind a dart board.  The customer wants something to hang on the wall behind a dart board to protect the drywall behind it.  I would like to make it hang from the wall so that they can change or move it in the future instead of permanently attaching it to the wall.  My plan is to use a 1/4″ ply backing board, then make 6″ wide x 1/2″ thick panels out of walnut and lay it out in a herringbone pattern going 18″ to either side from center.  Finally I plan to trim out around it to cover the ply and give it a more finished look.  What would be the best way to attach the panel pieces to the backing ply?  Should I glue up each piece, laminating it to the plywood?  Use pin nails and no glue?  Both?  Would it be best to paint the ply behind it and leave a slight gap or can I push them right up next to each other?  I just want to make sure I don’t have any wood movement issues or things like that.  Any help you can give would be appreciated and keep up the great work.
Garrett