Author: woodshoplifepodcast

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Guy

1) I am looking at getting a Festool domino machine. I was wondering which one you all use the most? They are a lot of money and I want to get both, but only one is in the budget currently. I am currently building a big green egg cart similar to Mark Spagnolo and he used both in his build. I mostly will be building small tables and small cabinets and am thinking of getting the 500 but was wondering what you all think. Thank you. David

2) Hey, Fellas!  I wanted to get your advice on something.  I inherited a Delta DC380 15″ planer that has a newer brushless motor on it and straight knives for a cutter head. It’s a beast, but it’s a big piece of equipment for my shop which is just the size of a one-car-garage.  I’m thinking about selling it and “downgrading” to a DeWalt DW735 with a helical head.  Am I crazy?  What might I end up sacrificing if I go with the DeWalt after working with the Delta for a few years now?  My biggest concerns with keeping the Delta is potential upcoming maintenance (it’s an older machine), overall size, and lack of storage in the industrial rolling base. -Joel

Sean

1) Hi fellas. You answered my question a while back on dining chair design re: lower stretchers. That was very helpful. Thanks.

I’ve prototyped a chair (I can email through a picture if that would help), and am now on to batching out the set in white oak. While I was doing the prototype, I pattern routed the back legs and found that I was getting a fair amount of tear out due to grain direction. So, I invested in a compression flush trim bit thinking that this would solve my problems. I’m finding that it isn’t the magic solution that I thought it’d be. I’m still facing issues with the bit chewing into grain that would ordinarily be in the wrong direction.

A little background information: I don’t have a router table. I’m doing this handheld, taking light passes, and I’ve got the speed slowed way down on the router. I’m using a 2.25 hp router, which should be able to handle this kind of thing.

Am I missing something? Do I need a router table for this to work? Should I reject technology altogether and live in the forest?

2) I listen to 2 podcasts. Yours is by far the better. Professional and informative while being personable.

I inherited a 12/4 100” x 18” Norwegian pine slab from my 93 year old mentor Bert.  Having been stored under his saw these past 30 years he wanted to see it used.  Grow locally here in SE Minnesota, I estimated it was a sapling in about 1870 making it 2nd growth.

It quickly became apparent neither 40 grit on a 4” hand drum sander nor No. 5 jack plane would work well, so I built an 8 foot x 2-1/2 foot router sled.  Using my Bosch 1617 and a Whiteside 6220 planing bit I eliminated the twist and the bandsaw marks then ROS to 80/150/220, amber shellac and wiping varnish made using Minwax. Final thickness was 3”. You can find pics at @wilsoncellulosics.

While acceptable for a fireplace lintel the resulting quality was good but not furniture grade. Have either you all or your colleagues done slab planing?  I am open to tackling another slab sometime when the opportunity arises. Are third party slab planers worth the considerable cost (meaning furniture-grade results)?  If so recommendations to consider? Bob Peterson

Huy

1) Hello gentlemen. This question is for all three of you. I have a 2hp Shop Fox table saw and wanted to add on to it by upgrading the fence and possibly building things into the wings. Have some trouble deciding on what fence when I realized this is a trend for me making these types of improvements everywhere. So…..What are the best third party upgrades you’ve made to tools in your shop (excluding the obvious things like the Super Incra Miter Sled 9000). Maybe a two answer format – best made shop improvement vs. best purchased improvement. What the thing you added that made life so much better. Thank you boys, keep up the great work. Joey – Winter Wolf Woodworking

2) Hi guys, love the podcast! I’ve got a question about a ceiling mounted air filters. I have a small (200ish sqft) shop in the basement. I was looking at something like the RIKON 62-400 since it’s a small area. However if I step up to the 62-100, which is 2.5x the price, I can get carbon filters for it, it’s not an option on the smaller unit. My question is: With my shop being in the house is it worth being able to get carbon filters to help get rid of some of the fumes from finishes, or is the bigger unit just overkill in such a small shop? Im not spraying conversion varnish or anything like that, usually it’s wipe on finish on small boxes and things, if that makes a difference. Also the HVAC is in the corner of the shop, and the basement outside my shop door is a finished living area, which is why I want to put in air filtration. Thanks! Matt

WoodWhisperer flattening workbench: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtkBZHLJyD0

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Guy

1) I’ve been building small furniture projects (Shaker tables, end tables, walnut table, lounge chairs) in my hobby shop using a skill saw or a hand saw when a bandsaw has been called for. My furniture projects are getting more complicated (a dresser, more lounge chairs) and I’m thinking it is time to get a bandsaw. But which one? I don’t see me doing much resawing, although I don’t want to completely foreclose that possibility. I’ve thought about the following options: Jet 14 inch deluxe pro (1.25 hp, $1000), Grizzly GO555LX 14 inch (1 hp, $750), and Rikon table top deluxe 10 inch (0.5 hp, $440). I note that Lowe’s also has a Porter Cable 13 inch and a Delta 13 inch, but at their price point I think I’d be better off with the Grizzly. What are your thoughts? Many thanks. …Tom

2) Hey fellas, big fan of the show. Really enjoy the “specificity” you bring to the craft. Question: you guys talk about not trusting your mitre saws for accurate cross cuts (kapex excluded). So I assume your trusted method is with a table saw. How do you manage getting accurate cuts on large pieces. I know trying to shave a 1/8” off of the end of a 8ft x 6 x 4/4 piece of lumber is not easily done with a mitre jig or a sled on a table saw. How do you get that perfect 90 on something other than a mitre saw on large and long stock? P.S. I don’t trust my mitre saw either. -Zach

Sean

1) I really enjoy the podcast and I always learn a lot listening to your show. My question is about finishing. I have been noticing that several woodworkers that I follow apply a glossy clear coat for the first few layers and then they will finish with a semi-gloss clear coat. What is the purpose of starting with a “shinier” coat and then finish with a “less” shiny coat? Thanks in advance…Josh

2) Love the show, I have heard throughout several episodes of each of you stocking up on hundreds of board feet of lumber for potential future projects. Is there a specific dimension, specifically thickness and length that you typically look for? I’m assuming that in order to achieve a specific width, you can always glue boards together, but for posts or say table legs, is this what you do as well? Or for those specific projects do you just custom order a thicker stock in order to get the desired thickness. Hope my question makes any sense, apologize if it is basic. Keep the episodes coming!! Christopher

Huy

1) I am a retired rocket scientist who now obsesses over furniture rather than missiles which means I take precision to meaningless extremes.  I am replacing my 1977 Craftsman with a Powermatic 64B bought sight unseen.   I have a Vega 50” fence which I like quite a bit. The Craftsman will be donated to Habitat. Which of the two fences should I send along to Habitat or are they just a horse apiece?

My skill level is intermediate. If at all helpful the items I make are cabinets and tables used either at home or donated for charity auctions. The blade is a WW2, Bench Dog router table for the left wing.

bob

2) if I got one of those EXPENSIVE Forest Woodworker II combination blades (the modified one with a flat bottom cut), would I fall out of love with blade changes? Are they really that much better that I wouldn’t feel the need to change that I do now? I much prefer the cuts I’m getting now with the specific grinds compared to combination blades I’ve used in the past (the better quality “home center”  brands).

Is there a time, even with those expensive combination blades, that you all go back to a specifically rip or crosscut blade?

Thanks for any input!

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Guy

1) I’m writing about a project where we are making a table and using white oak for the first time. While most boards looked great throughout the milling process, we found that a few board exposed a lot of very small short cracks or voids along the “rays”. I’ve seen this a lot working with heart pine which i have epoxied.

How common is this and how do you deal with. Thanks, Mike @ Sibley Manor Woodworks

2) Greetings, love the show. How do each of you feel about hand held belt sanders? (3″X 21″ for example). Some fine woodworkers swear by them for projects such as table tops, while others won’t even touch them for the hatred of the uneven marks they can leave behind, and relegate them to rough construction only. From my experience I’m in the latter category, although I admit I may not be using the machine properly/correct technique. Are there any special tips or ‘insider’ knowledge on how to avoid the dips/valleys they leave behind? Or should I go ahead and list my belt sander on Craigslist and be done with it?

MLBETT Wood Works

Sean

1)Hey Guy(s),

Your podcast is great. Thanks for all the help.

I am in the process of building a detached garage. Part of it is going to be a shop area. It’s not going to be a big shop area by any means (15’x25’).  I’m planning on making some cabinets and furniture for our future house (kitchen cabinets, vanities, tables, bar area).  Currently, I borrow other friends and family members equipment when doing project due to my limited space in town.  My question is, what equipment do you recommend for my shop?  I realize you need more information so I’ll explain what I have and a budget. I’m looking to spend around $2000-$2,500.  I don’t have many tools but here is what I have – 10” compound sliding miter saw from Harbor Freight that cuts a little off, cordless drills, circular saw with clamp edge guide, jig saw, and a 1/4” trim router.  These tools got me by for small projects but I think it’s time to upgrade.

Thanks for the help!

Casey

2) Hey guys I love the podcast and what you’re doing to help the woodworking community.

About two years ago I finished my walnut dinning room table. It was my first major project in years since my high school shop days. I learned a lot doing it. But as always made mistakes.

I made my table using breadboard ends and I used third coast craftsman’s video as inspiration for the construction of my breadboard ends. After I assembled my table I noticed small gaps between my top and breadboard ends. I was wondering if you could think of any ideas to fix those gaps.  I appreciate the time. Thanks guys. – Trent

Huy

1) Hey guys – I am in the process of building a shed (my new workshop). It’s going to be 12×16. I will have full 8ft walls and a 7×5 steel rollup door (like the ones you see at storage units) and it will be insulated however most likely not climate controlled 24/7.

My main question is about lumber storage.  since it won’t be climate controlled 24/7 should  I be storing lumber in the shop or think about storing it elsewhere. Typically I will only have on hand what I need for the current project or 2. 

Any suggestions on maximizing storage in this small space? John

2) I recently bought some CA glue and activator, as I was reading the label it said that it needed to be kept in a cool place and even suggested storing it in the fridge.  Then I remembered that I heard that PVA glue can go bad if left in a place that is to hot.  Where do you guys store your adhesives? -Rick

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Guy

1) Next question: how much time do you spend working on workflow and process in the shop? I’m a night and weekend woodworker who is taking commission orders now and want to ensure I maximize my time in the shop to be the most effective. What are some tips tricks or source material you might suggest? Maybe Guy can lend an answer to this, as he is working in a full time production shop. Also, just down the road from you Guy, in Noblesville. Thanks in advance! -Thelibertycraftsman

2) Hi Guy, love the podcast. I have a question about the Festool Kapex. I’m about to purchase a new miter saw and am between the Kapex or the Bosch glider. The only concern I have are some of the comments  about the handle shape on the Kapex. Since you use it I’d like your opinion. It is expensive and want to be sure it’s worth it. I would really like a precision miter saw. Thanks you all and love the show. Anthony

Sean

1) I have the opportunity to get my hands on some ash trees that will be felled due to the emerald ash borer. I will have these trees slabbed and kiln dried by a local sawmill.

I am fairly new to woodworking and I am primarily a hand tool user.

My question for you guys is what are your thoughts on using ash to build either a Roubo style workbench. Is ash dense/heavy enough to be used as workbench.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Carlos @alberto_woodworks

2) Have you ever heard of anyone hiring someone for a weekend to come to your house and help make adjustments on multiple machines? My tablesaw, bandsaw, jointer and planer all work but could benefit from someone with experience double checking things and making minor adjustments. I  know that every machine has its own quirks so finding someone that knows my exact models would be difficult but I feel as though someone with more experience could make a big impact in a short period of time.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. – Evan

Huy

1) Hey guys my name is Anthony S. I am a novice woodworker with a focus on medieval furniture for the house and camp as my wife and I are part of a living history group. We are looking for  our first house. I would like to have one area of the house for a workshop. I use quite a few power tools in my work now and will hope to get a tablesaw and drill press after the house. I know I should be concerned with ventilation and dust collection, which will be determined by where in the house the workshop is, but I am hoping for it to be in the garage. I was wondering what else should we be looking for in a workshop space when house hunting.

2) I have a chance to buy a second hand Felder AF22 dust extractor. It is a 2.2kw 3HP machine but it has a three phase motor in it (I’m in the UK). Putting in three phase power is prohibitively expensive.

Do you have any experience of running a three phase machine with a VFD (preferably an inexpensive Chinese one) and can I use a remote control switch to activate it from my table saw. Many thanks, Mark

Information mentioned in the podcast from Huy: Acogedor AC 220V 2.2KW VFD Motor Inverter Speed Controller,Variable Frequency Drive with Wireless Remote Control