Category: Podcast Episodes

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Guys Questions:

1) Hey guys and Guy, back with another question for you. I foolishly agreed to make the new dining table for my fire department. We Firefighters are basically 240 pound toddlers, so this thing needs to be essentially bomb proof. My main concern for this piece is finishing. I have listened to a lot of podcasts and done some reading but most of the discussion on finishing is in regards to the nicest finish. Not how to gorilla proof a finish. I’ve had people suggest epoxy, but I don’t really want to do an epoxy pour, especially with the stigma surrounding epoxy right now. My go to finish is the minwax oil based poly. And I’m wondering should I just go that rout and add extra layers? I’ve even considered using a poly for hardwood floors. What do ya’ll think? I am probably going to build with 8/4 hickory. Thanks in advance. -Hunter

2) I’m new to veneering, but was curious about the subject of cross grain glue ups with veneer. If one wants to veneer a panel with a Baltic birch plywood core, how would you glue something over 4ft? With plywood grain running the 8ft length, my guess is you would have to put a layer of backing veneer perpendicular to the plywood grain and then lay up the finish veneer on top of that.  I know using MDF would make this easier but I’m not love with it. For reference this would be a cabinet side for a 9ft tall built in with an outside face. -Jesse

Sean’s Questions:

1) My one car detached garage is 109 years old and is running off of one single 20A 120V circuit. I have just two outlets in the garage right now and I want to have a subpanel installed with more amperage and ideally a 220V circuit as well. That’s what I’m wondering about. I was thinking a total of 100A with three 20A 110V circuits and one 40A 220V circuit. I’m not an electrician so I don’t even know that that’s possible, but if so, does that power setup sound good. I’m trying to “future-proof” it a bit, thinking about potentially expanding the garage one day,  having a 220V dust collector and maybe a Hammer combo machine like Huy once I get that rocket engineer kinda money but I was also thinking of externally mounting the panel box so I could run external conduit to have flexibility for future outlet layout changes. So yeah, I just want to get an opinion on power availability throughout the shop and what your thoughts are. Jonathan Scott woodcrafts

2) What is the piece that you built and wish to forget about? – Eric

Huy’s Questions:

1) I have a 1970s Rockwell floor stand drill press I restored with no appreciable run out as well as a powermatic 180 (18 inch planer) with helical head upgrade.  They are older but seem sturdier that today’s machines. Just wondering what machines you might consider looking for older versions that may be better than today’s equivalent as I do not see many of the type in your shops. Thanks again, Matthew

2) I have a lot of a variety of types of clamps that is on a simple wall rack now. I need the wall space in my growing ever smaller 2 car garage shop. Considering a clamp cart or possibly under benches? Please discuss options and how you each deal with them being out of the way but handy when needed. -Darren

Thanks to Maverick Abrasives for sponsoring this episode. Check them out at https://www.maverickabrasives.com

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Guy

1) Have you ever made your own plywood from solid wood for projects?  I’m thinking a void free core of walnut plywood could allow me to use it in projects where the edge could be exposed unlike traditional veneered plywood and also give me some dimension stability.  You thoughts? Tips? Brian

2) I know at least one of you uses the Leigh dovetail jig. Just wondering how well the jig is made. If the tail and pin boards align, and if there is a lot of tweaking to get the jig to work properly. I have Porter Cable 4216 jig. I have been trying to get this to work for a case I am working on. I was having some problems with the tails and pins being about a sixteenth out of alignment. I took many measurements to be sure that the tail board is centered in the template only to discover as I loosened the template it could shift side to side by more that a thirty second of an inch. There are a few other things I am not crazy about with this jig. Just wondering what your experiences have shown using other jigs,

Also, thanks for answering all of my previous questions! – Dave

Sean

1) I have been a weekend woodworker for 5 or so years as time permits with 3 kids and a busy schedule. I am working out of a 3 car garage that my wife and I both park in. I use about 1.5 bays currently and when I do not have a project I move equipment so I can park. I do not have an assembly or outfeed table to work from and often use the garage floor. Frustrating… I am looking for space savings option for a table, preferably one with dog holes so I can clamp to route, biscuit joint, and other assembly work. I currently do not have hand tools i.e. handsaws, planes, or chisels for heavy duty hand tool work. Maybe one that is portable like Guys outfeed table as I have an incra tablesaw fence as well. I don’t know if a festool mft3 would be a solution as I could store it when not working/assembling. Maybe a storabe outfeed table as well as a storable assemble might work. I don’t think I am ready for a hand tool workbench yet. My father in law had a production cabinet door and counter top shop with a large industrial CNC machine and could cut a festoool style top out of MDF that would not cost me anything out of pocket. Is that a good option? Any recommendations would be appreciated.

2) Shhhh…. don’t let Guy know I asked another question. Let’s just say this one is from Boudreaux François… hahaha

With as many jigs and templates that are made for your projects through the years what do you do with them? Do you make them one time, use them then toss them out or repurpose them for other jigs? Aside from the obvious ones that are traditionally used in the shop (cross cut sleds, tapering jig, edge jointing jig for the table saw… etc) at what point do you say “I’m going to keep this one”. I have always struggled with the idea of spending the time to make these jigs and templates even if I know that I won’t necessarily be using it again in the next 6 months then just trashing it. Just curious.

As always, Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on!

Thanks,
Brent Jarvis
Clean Cut Woodworking

Huy

1) I am making a pair of side tables that are based on Philip Morley’s table design from the #275 Fine woodworking issue. I’ve scaled it down and modified it to be a side table more than a dining table (proportionally shrunk all the dimensions, increased apron size to fit a shallow drawer in it and added a low shelf) but I am trying to keep a similar look to his original piece. So, I am using his techniques to create the legs which have a curved taper and Phil achieves this shape with a two-sided jig that he runs along a flush cut trim bit.
My legs are 2 and 5/16 thick at the thickest part. Add on about 1/2 inch for the jig and that meant I needed to get a pretty tall flush cut bit. I bought a flush cut bit (top and bottom bearing) that is 2 and 1/2 inches long (2 and 1/2 cutting length, 3/4 wide, 1/2 shank, overall length 4 and 7/8) so that I could route it in one pass.
I will set it up on the router table and I intend to cut real close to the line so I don’t have much material to remove, but I am still a little nervous about it when I think about that tall bit. I have never used such a large bit before and would like to know what special considerations to take.
Should I be concerned about the stability of the bit when it is that tall?

2) Hello again, some advice/brainstorming sought.
I am building a puzzle building table. If you are unfamiliar, it is essentially a large box with a very shallow bottom so that a puzzle can be built on that surface. Two large leaves then fold over from the ends to cover the entire top, leave a table for other use.

Because of the leaves unfolding and draping over the short ends, I need the end to be flush across, so a normal leg with the rails mortised in won’t really work as insetting the rail isn’t possible with the hinges, and flush (to me) won’t look right. The ones I’ve seen on the internet build a big box then attach the legs inside the corners. I’d also like the legs to be removable so that it can be transported more compact as it will be “pub height” of about 40″
I’m wondering what attachment method you might use to lace the legs on the inside corners, preferably removable, but also sturdy and non wracking.
The rails will be about 8″ wide (still designing) with the “bottom” about an inch from the top. So there will be about 6-7″ available corner space underneath the top for the legs to rest.
Any ideas?

Thanks, Peter
@mr.downing.woodworking on Instagram

Our social media picks:

Sean:  @thosmoser
Guy: @pdindy
Huy: @meredithhartfurniture

Thanks to the sponsor of this episode, Maverick Abrasives 

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) Hi guys , I have been pondering this for a while and just wanted some other perspectives, if you don’t mind. Question, how would you go about veneering a cabriole leg, something in the Louis 14th era. I haven’t found anything on how it was done (some kind of hammer veneering I’m guessing)
I want to do this for a personal project and would appreciate any insights.
Cheers, joey chalk.

2) I have an older coffee table. Nicely made from oak. It is finished in a dark brown stain and then covered in a glossy varnish (at least I think it’s a stain/varnish combination). I like the coffee table, but the finish is not my style and would prefer it to be matt and/or lighter in color .
I guess the easiest work is to just get it matt by lightly sanding it and refinishing it with matt varnish? Getting the color lighter will require more sanding and more work?
What would your approach be? Any suggestions for stains, oils or another finishes that look natural/lighter?

Thank you!
Bart (from Belgium)

Seans Questions:

1) I was wondering your thoughts about putting a wax finish over danish oil. I’ve heard that it’s more upkeep and unnecessary. I’ve finished a few small gift boxes made out of walnut with danish oil but I feel that I don’t quite get the patina I’m looking for. Do you have a favorite finish for small gift boxes? – Scott

2) Hi Guys,
Thanks for putting together such a great podcast! I know that Guy has a 12″ jointer/planer combo machine and believe Huy and Sean may also. I’ve asked Guy a few questions about his machine in the past and he has been kind enough to answer and even do a review of his machine…thanks Guy! I am looking to eventually purchase a similar machine to Guy’s, but the Canadian importer I will purchase from offers both 12″ and 16″ models. Has there been a time that you’ve wished for a machine larger than 12″? Obviously the 16″ is more money, an extra $1000 or so. Would you go for the 16″, or is 12″ more than enough? – Kreg

Huys Questions:

1) I always here people talk about how you can’t trust the square you just bought to be square. Well, if nothing I have is square, then how the hell do I know what is actually square? This question of what is really square and what is not has been screwing with me for a couple of years now. So I just pass over it and get my stuff close enough…. which, of course, makes for its own set of headaches….PyratWoodworking

2) Loving the podcast guys! My question is regarding third party upgrades to bigger machines. Recently found a used Jet JJ-6CSX on marketplace for pretty cheap ($550) and the commercial contractor selling it must not have used it because it’s in amazing condition. That being said, I’m tempted to upgrade the cutter head. Although the knives are functional and fine, I know that a helical head has a lot more long term benefits.

So my question is: Have any of you upgraded a cutterhead from a third party vendor before? If so, how did it work out? I have also only been able to find a couple of options from Grizzly or Byrd. Are there others out there that also make something that can fit this model and what should I be weary of when looking?

As always thanks for all you guys do.

Joey
Winter Wolf Woodworking

Our Social Picks:

Sean: @StudioCSH

Guy: @retiredwithwood

Huy:  @fernwehwoodworking

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Questions:

Guy:

1) Hey guys! I Love the podcast and I’ve listened to every episode!

I’m currently building a simple kitchen island and am having an issue with the top. The top will be made up of three 1.5″ thick X 7.5″ wide X 42.5″ long pine boards. I have a cheaper Jet jointer/planer combo machine and I can’t get a good seamless joint between the boards right off the machine. I’m attempting to fine tune the joint by hand using a No. 4 hand plane, but just can’t seem to get a gapless joint. In your opinion, is it possible to properly square up the edge of a 1.5″ thick, 42″ long board using only a No. 4 or is something like a No 7 the only way to go? Any help would be appreciated.

2) Hey guys,

I guess this is a question more for mr. Dunlap. In regards to your jessem stock guides; when do you find yourself using them vs not? For example what about pieces short enough not to catch both guides at the same time (where the first roller drops off before the second engages)? Or boards that are narrow to the point of a push stick being awkward. For example 3” or less? I’m a new convert and am loving them on wider stock such as plywood. Just not sure when else to use them. Thanks for the podcast. It’s the highlight of the week, and one saved for the arduous traffic of Los Angeles.

Tanc.

Sean:

1) Hey guys- I’m in the market for my first dust collector. I’m set on a canister filtr as my shop is in the basement. I’m torn between the Grizzly G0583Z – 1 HP Canister and the Grizzly G0548ZP – 2 HP Canister Dust Collector. I think Sean has the latter. My question is: Would the 1 HP collector be sufficient for a 620 sq ft shop using a one-tool-at-a-time setup? I don’t see myself ever adding ductwork to every tool due to low ceilings. I plan on have dedicated shop vacs for tool like the miter saw, etc. I have 220V available but its at the opposite corner from where I want the collector to be, so I’m taking that hassle of extending that into consideration. The difference in cost is about $165 on Amazon (which is cheaper than directly from Grizzly when you consider $99 freight.
Thanks for your time. Keep up the good work!

2) Your preference, Western push saw or Japanese pull saw?

Huy:

1) Hey Guys,
I built my wife a table and I started using my hand plane to level everything out. Occasionally, the toe of the plane would dig into the work piece. After a lot of explicit language, I’d get it “fixed”. Any idea what could be going on? If it matters, it’s a Stanley No 4 

2) I have never used a spokeshave but I want to get one for making on site templates for built ins. Would this type of work be appropriate for the $30-40 level Stanley or kunz spokeshaves? I would also like to get one for use in the shop. Is there a spokeshave that could handle both equally well, or is that a case for nicer set (curved and flat bottomed for the shop) ?

Social Picks

Sean: @darrell.peart

Huy:  @kieselbachworkshop

Guy:@ramonartful

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Questions

Guy:

1) I have a question regarding table saws. Since I still haven’t been able to convince my wife to let my buy a used Felder KF700 , what are your thoughts on other sliding table saws. I know you all have conventional cabinet saws. I’m considering getting the Grizzly G0623X as an upgrade to my Ridgid R4512. I’ve also looked at other table saws such as the SawStop and Powermatic PM2000. However with a traditional cabinet saw I’d also be considering getting the Incra Miter 5000. With that the cost ends up being more than the Grizzly. I’d be interested in hearing your guys thoughts on such options. -Ian

2) I’ve recently been looking into moisture meters and found the good ones seem to be $300 and up. I want to ask if you three use a moisture meter? If so, what do you use and recommend? Thanks for the great info on the podcast, it’s been a big help for this new woodworker. Keep up the good work.
Matt in Alabama

Sean:

1) Hey guys, really enjoying the podcast. Makes my commutes far more enjoyable! My question for you is regarding resawing. I currently get by with an assortment of hand tools, a Dewalt DWE7491RS table saw with a stand that folds up on end, and a Dewalt thickness planer. While I would love to add a nice 14” bandsaw to the arsenal, I simply do not have the shop space at this moment in time. I am about to start making my wife a jewelry box using walnut for the sides and would like to incorporate a bookmatched maple top. I haven’t worked out the dimensions yet, but I will likely shoot for a panel size in the ballpark of 12”x10”x1/4”. As I see it, my options are to resaw by hand using a 22”-26” panel rip saw (need to purchase, and wouldn’t mind the workout), 10” bandsaw like the Rikon 10-306 (also need to purchase, would not take up too much valuable shop space, and would get me by until my shop space situation improves, which could be a while), or take a 20 minute drive to my buddy’s house to use his bandsaw. The major concern I have about using his bandsaw is running the risk of the resawn boards cupping due to the environmental differences between our shops. The order of my preferences are: using my buddy’s bandsaw first, followed by resawing by hand, and then buying the 10” bandsaw. Your advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks! – John

2) How flat is your outfeed/assembly table?

I just made a 4’x6’ torsion box top for my outfeed / assembly table to maximize shop space. It didn’t come out as planned is if off as much at 1/64th in some places. Not sure what happened. It Seems to be flat along the length (according to my Veritas straightedge) but for some reason not across
Seems to be about a 6” strip along one long side that is about 1/64 lower than the rest of the table. -Ray

Huy:

1) My first question is related to the different furniture styles. I hope to one day become a fine furniture maker myself so I am trying to learn more about the various styles (i.e. shaker, green and green, arts and crafts, danish/mid century modern, etc…) I feel that I am starting to get a good idea of what “defines” these styles but if you can provide any additional info on it that would be awesome.
Specifically, one thing I struggle with is how wood selection relates to the different styles. I have heard statements before like “I considered making the piece out of Oak but that would take it to a more arts-and-crafts style” and I am a little unclear on how a piece can change styles based on wood selection even though the design is seemingly unchanged. -Bojan

2) I have another. Ive been woodworking for two years and i try to tackle a new skill each project. I love learning and love pumping out new pieces. My focus has been on the design and build phase. One area I can’t seem to care about is joinery. Is there anything wrong with dowel construction? I find the DowelMax gives me piston fit joints that are easy, quick and dead square. But sometimes I feel like a hack for not doing more complicated work. The tests I’ve seen show that dowels when used properly are equally as strong as M and T and stronger than dominos. Am I missing out? Can one still build “fine furniture” without M/T’s? Or should I man up and pull out the chisels? -Tanc

Social Media Picks:

Guy: @marcadamsschoolofwoodworking

Sean: @Pedullastudio

Huy: @bernchandleyfurniture