Category: Podcast Episodes

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Guys Questions:

1) Hi guys , I have been pondering this for a while and just wanted some other perspectives, if you don’t mind. Question, how would you go about veneering a cabriole leg, something in the Louis 14th era. I haven’t found anything on how it was done (some kind of hammer veneering I’m guessing)
I want to do this for a personal project and would appreciate any insights.
Cheers, joey chalk.

2) I have an older coffee table. Nicely made from oak. It is finished in a dark brown stain and then covered in a glossy varnish (at least I think it’s a stain/varnish combination). I like the coffee table, but the finish is not my style and would prefer it to be matt and/or lighter in color .
I guess the easiest work is to just get it matt by lightly sanding it and refinishing it with matt varnish? Getting the color lighter will require more sanding and more work?
What would your approach be? Any suggestions for stains, oils or another finishes that look natural/lighter?

Thank you!
Bart (from Belgium)

Seans Questions:

1) I was wondering your thoughts about putting a wax finish over danish oil. I’ve heard that it’s more upkeep and unnecessary. I’ve finished a few small gift boxes made out of walnut with danish oil but I feel that I don’t quite get the patina I’m looking for. Do you have a favorite finish for small gift boxes? – Scott

2) Hi Guys,
Thanks for putting together such a great podcast! I know that Guy has a 12″ jointer/planer combo machine and believe Huy and Sean may also. I’ve asked Guy a few questions about his machine in the past and he has been kind enough to answer and even do a review of his machine…thanks Guy! I am looking to eventually purchase a similar machine to Guy’s, but the Canadian importer I will purchase from offers both 12″ and 16″ models. Has there been a time that you’ve wished for a machine larger than 12″? Obviously the 16″ is more money, an extra $1000 or so. Would you go for the 16″, or is 12″ more than enough? – Kreg

Huys Questions:

1) I always here people talk about how you can’t trust the square you just bought to be square. Well, if nothing I have is square, then how the hell do I know what is actually square? This question of what is really square and what is not has been screwing with me for a couple of years now. So I just pass over it and get my stuff close enough…. which, of course, makes for its own set of headaches….PyratWoodworking

2) Loving the podcast guys! My question is regarding third party upgrades to bigger machines. Recently found a used Jet JJ-6CSX on marketplace for pretty cheap ($550) and the commercial contractor selling it must not have used it because it’s in amazing condition. That being said, I’m tempted to upgrade the cutter head. Although the knives are functional and fine, I know that a helical head has a lot more long term benefits.

So my question is: Have any of you upgraded a cutterhead from a third party vendor before? If so, how did it work out? I have also only been able to find a couple of options from Grizzly or Byrd. Are there others out there that also make something that can fit this model and what should I be weary of when looking?

As always thanks for all you guys do.

Joey
Winter Wolf Woodworking

Our Social Picks:

Sean: @StudioCSH

Guy: @retiredwithwood

Huy:  @fernwehwoodworking

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Questions:

Guy:

1) Hey guys! I Love the podcast and I’ve listened to every episode!

I’m currently building a simple kitchen island and am having an issue with the top. The top will be made up of three 1.5″ thick X 7.5″ wide X 42.5″ long pine boards. I have a cheaper Jet jointer/planer combo machine and I can’t get a good seamless joint between the boards right off the machine. I’m attempting to fine tune the joint by hand using a No. 4 hand plane, but just can’t seem to get a gapless joint. In your opinion, is it possible to properly square up the edge of a 1.5″ thick, 42″ long board using only a No. 4 or is something like a No 7 the only way to go? Any help would be appreciated.

2) Hey guys,

I guess this is a question more for mr. Dunlap. In regards to your jessem stock guides; when do you find yourself using them vs not? For example what about pieces short enough not to catch both guides at the same time (where the first roller drops off before the second engages)? Or boards that are narrow to the point of a push stick being awkward. For example 3” or less? I’m a new convert and am loving them on wider stock such as plywood. Just not sure when else to use them. Thanks for the podcast. It’s the highlight of the week, and one saved for the arduous traffic of Los Angeles.

Tanc.

Sean:

1) Hey guys- I’m in the market for my first dust collector. I’m set on a canister filtr as my shop is in the basement. I’m torn between the Grizzly G0583Z – 1 HP Canister and the Grizzly G0548ZP – 2 HP Canister Dust Collector. I think Sean has the latter. My question is: Would the 1 HP collector be sufficient for a 620 sq ft shop using a one-tool-at-a-time setup? I don’t see myself ever adding ductwork to every tool due to low ceilings. I plan on have dedicated shop vacs for tool like the miter saw, etc. I have 220V available but its at the opposite corner from where I want the collector to be, so I’m taking that hassle of extending that into consideration. The difference in cost is about $165 on Amazon (which is cheaper than directly from Grizzly when you consider $99 freight.
Thanks for your time. Keep up the good work!

2) Your preference, Western push saw or Japanese pull saw?

Huy:

1) Hey Guys,
I built my wife a table and I started using my hand plane to level everything out. Occasionally, the toe of the plane would dig into the work piece. After a lot of explicit language, I’d get it “fixed”. Any idea what could be going on? If it matters, it’s a Stanley No 4 

2) I have never used a spokeshave but I want to get one for making on site templates for built ins. Would this type of work be appropriate for the $30-40 level Stanley or kunz spokeshaves? I would also like to get one for use in the shop. Is there a spokeshave that could handle both equally well, or is that a case for nicer set (curved and flat bottomed for the shop) ?

Social Picks

Sean: @darrell.peart

Huy:  @kieselbachworkshop

Guy:@ramonartful

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Questions

Guy:

1) I have a question regarding table saws. Since I still haven’t been able to convince my wife to let my buy a used Felder KF700 , what are your thoughts on other sliding table saws. I know you all have conventional cabinet saws. I’m considering getting the Grizzly G0623X as an upgrade to my Ridgid R4512. I’ve also looked at other table saws such as the SawStop and Powermatic PM2000. However with a traditional cabinet saw I’d also be considering getting the Incra Miter 5000. With that the cost ends up being more than the Grizzly. I’d be interested in hearing your guys thoughts on such options. -Ian

2) I’ve recently been looking into moisture meters and found the good ones seem to be $300 and up. I want to ask if you three use a moisture meter? If so, what do you use and recommend? Thanks for the great info on the podcast, it’s been a big help for this new woodworker. Keep up the good work.
Matt in Alabama

Sean:

1) Hey guys, really enjoying the podcast. Makes my commutes far more enjoyable! My question for you is regarding resawing. I currently get by with an assortment of hand tools, a Dewalt DWE7491RS table saw with a stand that folds up on end, and a Dewalt thickness planer. While I would love to add a nice 14” bandsaw to the arsenal, I simply do not have the shop space at this moment in time. I am about to start making my wife a jewelry box using walnut for the sides and would like to incorporate a bookmatched maple top. I haven’t worked out the dimensions yet, but I will likely shoot for a panel size in the ballpark of 12”x10”x1/4”. As I see it, my options are to resaw by hand using a 22”-26” panel rip saw (need to purchase, and wouldn’t mind the workout), 10” bandsaw like the Rikon 10-306 (also need to purchase, would not take up too much valuable shop space, and would get me by until my shop space situation improves, which could be a while), or take a 20 minute drive to my buddy’s house to use his bandsaw. The major concern I have about using his bandsaw is running the risk of the resawn boards cupping due to the environmental differences between our shops. The order of my preferences are: using my buddy’s bandsaw first, followed by resawing by hand, and then buying the 10” bandsaw. Your advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks! – John

2) How flat is your outfeed/assembly table?

I just made a 4’x6’ torsion box top for my outfeed / assembly table to maximize shop space. It didn’t come out as planned is if off as much at 1/64th in some places. Not sure what happened. It Seems to be flat along the length (according to my Veritas straightedge) but for some reason not across
Seems to be about a 6” strip along one long side that is about 1/64 lower than the rest of the table. -Ray

Huy:

1) My first question is related to the different furniture styles. I hope to one day become a fine furniture maker myself so I am trying to learn more about the various styles (i.e. shaker, green and green, arts and crafts, danish/mid century modern, etc…) I feel that I am starting to get a good idea of what “defines” these styles but if you can provide any additional info on it that would be awesome.
Specifically, one thing I struggle with is how wood selection relates to the different styles. I have heard statements before like “I considered making the piece out of Oak but that would take it to a more arts-and-crafts style” and I am a little unclear on how a piece can change styles based on wood selection even though the design is seemingly unchanged. -Bojan

2) I have another. Ive been woodworking for two years and i try to tackle a new skill each project. I love learning and love pumping out new pieces. My focus has been on the design and build phase. One area I can’t seem to care about is joinery. Is there anything wrong with dowel construction? I find the DowelMax gives me piston fit joints that are easy, quick and dead square. But sometimes I feel like a hack for not doing more complicated work. The tests I’ve seen show that dowels when used properly are equally as strong as M and T and stronger than dominos. Am I missing out? Can one still build “fine furniture” without M/T’s? Or should I man up and pull out the chisels? -Tanc

Social Media Picks:

Guy: @marcadamsschoolofwoodworking

Sean: @Pedullastudio

Huy: @bernchandleyfurniture

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Guys Questions:

1) I’ve always valued the information y’all share on the podcast and this one popped into my head.

Sitting at work today as I was looking for the end of the internet I went down the rabbit hole of different wood glues. After going down the rabbit hole there was a lot of things that actually made sense for using different glues for different applications. I have always just used titebond 3 because it just seems like the most versatile of any other glue out there. It’s water resistant and food safe so why have 15 different glues for 1000 different applications. As I grow more and more into the trade it leads me to wanting to move more toward the more tried and true methods that some of the most reputable woodworkers have proved to be the best practices for certain applications. Leading into the question, (minus brands if you don’t want to go there) What types of glues do you migrate to the most and what is the reason for that? Is it a certain type of glue for a certain application or do you sort of do like me and stick with a particular glue for any project you make? Would you design a project and decide that you’re going to use a certain type of glue for it over another?

Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on!

Thanks,
Brent Jarvis
Clean Cut Woodworking

2) Re: your pick for the ETS125 – is that just a smaller Rotex 150 basically? Why not use RO150 to cover more area? I only have the RO150 and the triangle shaped one… DTS?? JJ

Seans Questions:

1) I’ve got a large hole in a piece of ash. I’m not sure what to do with it. Other than. Fill with a black epoxy because the top will be stained pretty dark. I’m just worried it will be a really dark spot -Casey

2) Hi Guys, 
I am working on an entry table with through mortise and tenon joints with the tenon as a show feature. I am cutting the mortises using a drill press and cleaning up with chisels. I tried a sample piece and it does not look great. Is there a good technique to get a near perfect joint? Or will I be okay filling in the cracks with sawdust/glue filler trick? What do you recommend?
Thanks for the advice. Keep up the great podcast!
Thanks,
James

Huys Questions:

1) My son had a black walnut cut down last October. The arborist also had a portable mill so he milled up a number of slabs for me. I have kept these slabs in my garage since then. They are stickered and I put three ratchet straps around the pile to hopefully keep them flat. When is the right time to move them into the house? Is it ok to keep them in the garage? Have you guys harvested any lumber like this? I know Cremona has a process but I want to know what normal people do! JK! I love Cremona

I’ve really enjoyed the format of the podcast. I listen to a number of them and I have to say this is on the top of the list.

David

2) I’ve been commissioned to restore a round oak table with several leafs and 6 chairs….built in the early 1900’s!

I’m excited for this project but restoration is still somewhat new to me. The table does have some water marks and other blushing on the finish, it I still don’t know what the finish is. I’d like to stay away from heavier solvents to avoid damaging the wood.

Would going straight to an orbital sander or by hand with 120 be my best bet to get through safely? And if I wanted to try and remove a layer with a stripper of sorts, would I just guess between the mineral spirits or alcohols?

Would love to hear your thoughts on this!
Joey from Winter Wolf Woodworking

Our Social Picks:

Huy: @plakotoris_studio

Guy: @stenewoodwork

Sean: @MrCabinetMaker

Support us on Patreon:https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) Do you believe a grounding wire is required for home/hobby dust collection systems ? Eric

2) Hi Guys, love the podcast. I have a question on pricing / bidding your work. Do you have a standard formula, eg. 4x material? Do you ask the potential client how much they’re looking to spend and see if you can do it profitably? Any banter and guidance on the subject would be appreciated. Hope to make it into the podcast. Best, Will

Seans Questions:

1) Hello guys, first of all great podcast, the questions are always my favourite part of any podcast so I really love your format. My question is regarding a standard drum sander vs. an orbital drum sander. I have seen a few on Craigslist for sale- the one I’m considering is a 2010 Jet 22-44max for $400. In doing research I see a lot of the new models are random orbit. Will this make a huge difference? I’m on a budget so a new machine isn’t going to happen and I haven’t seen any used random orbit models for sale. -Travis

2)Hey Guys!!!! A big fan of all 3 of you and love the show!!!!
Question for all of you…What brand of router bits do you prefer? With there being tons out there, which one is your go-to brand of bits? Whiteside, Freud, Amana, CMT, Irwin, etc… I hear lots of tool reviews out there, but never a really lot on router bits.
I would love to hear your thoughts on it and see which ones you guys like.
Keep the podcast coming!!!!

Nick

Huys Questions:

1) Not liking the end of day cough, I’ve been investing in dust collection. I use a Festool dust extractor for small tools. I run a WEN air filter. I have built a DIY cyclone separator out of an older JET 30um bag collector. The one tool that still throws dust all over me and into the air is my Sawtop table saw. I’m thinking of investing in ovehead dust collection, but I’m wondering if it is practical, effective, and worth the investment. As I think Sean has the sawstop dust collection guard, I’m wondering how well it works or if there are better alternatives. What is your experience?

John from AZ

2) Are there any pieces of furniture that are in your home that you wish you had not bought/made? I often look at the furniture that I bought from a certain Swedish brand and wish I had the time to make something nicer/better. Thanks guys, love the pod and keep up the great work. Paul

Social Picks
Sean@markbuildsit
Huy@lesliewebbdesign
Guy@satansdogg