Category: Podcast Episodes

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Guy’s Questions:

1) Hey guys, I hope all is well. When I was building my Roubo workbench I ran into a rust problem. I purchased kiln died lumber from a trusted source. I drilled a hole in some 4″ thick walnut for my tail vise end cap. I inserted my bench crafted screw to check the fit and left it for a few days. When I removed the screw it had rusted. Any thoughts on why this happened? Should I paint the section of the screw that will remain in the endcap? JD Messick

2) What do you guys think are the essential measuring tools that any woodworker should start out with; ie combination squares, rulers, etc. and any brand recommendations you might have. Any input is appreciated. -Travis

Sean’s Questions:

1) Gents, I’m torn at the moment as I am in the process outfitting my new 400sf stand-alone shop. Until recently, I’ve planned to install a 2 stage dust collection system with super dust deputy, externally venting fan and hard ducting with blast gates to each tool. I recently snagged up a used Festool domino ($675!) and ETC 125. I’m becoming a convert and seriously considering scrapping the dust collector plan and getting an Extractor to switch around as needed for each tool. What are your thoughts on going with 1 method over the other? I can’t afford both at the moment. Which extractor would you recommend? Is it feasible to hook a single extractor to all my other non-Festool equipment? I’m assuming that a little adapter would be needed for each. Other tools in the shop include a table saw, bandsaw, disc, and spindle sanders, planer, jointer, etc. Cheers! Clayton

2) I am planning to build a bookshelf for my son that will be around 5.5 feet tall, 3 feet wide and around 15 inches deep. I am planning to use plywood with a solid wood face frame and have two sturdiness questions. First, what thickness should I use for the plywood? I’ve been planning on 3/4 but am not sure if that is overkill/too heavy or if it’s what I should be using. Second, what are some suggestions for standing stability? It will be on carpet and I’m wondering if there are ways to stabilize it without attaching it to the wall. My son is one and grabs, pulls and climbs on everything so I want to make sure there is no way he can get it off balanced enough for it to come down. Thanks in advance for any suggestions and advice you have to offer!

Regards,
Alan Dills

Huy’s Questions:

1) Hey guys, loving the podcast and listening to the back catalog. Topic for Huy, can you elaborate on the benefits, ease of use, and justification with your scope of work and the cost of the pantorouter? Do you think this is a tool where you will find a way to use it on nearly every project? That thing looks awesome! Thanks! Nutone woodworker

2) What’s up guys, I’m hoping by the end of the summer to have a much bigger shop space. First purchase I would like to make is a Jointer. Looking at the Grizzly 8” w/ a helical head. Any opinions on that specific one would be great, also open to suggestions on others. But my main question is, does a jointer replace a planer? Besides a planer being self-feeding, what are the actual differences? Thanks, guys look forward to the show every other week

Tom

Our Instagram Picks:

Sean: @justin_dipalma
Guy: @garagewoodworks
Huy: @ericreason

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Guys Questions:

1) My question for the guys. With the internet providing information and inspiration for projects, do you still subscribe to woodworking magazines?
Eric (Poplar_shop)

2) Love the podcast guys. Got a question for the podcast. If you only get 3 Festool tools to that you could have in your shop what would they be? The domino can’t be included in your 3 tools. I have a track saw and looking into a sander possibly the rotex 125. I’m not sure I could justify the price of the kapex though I see you guys all have one.
Chris

Seans Questions:

1) This may be too basic to address on the shoe but you all talk of different benches. Assembly, work, and out-feed. I get what an out-feed bench is but what is the difference between work and assembly bench. Rick

2) Can you guys talk tack saws in a future episode? I’ve got some large panels to cut for a coffee bar i’m building and need some feedback on different brands. – W B Designs

Huys Questions:

1) I have a question about a stand-alone router table vs table saw extension wing router table. I’ve recently purchased a 3.25HP router and lift, and I’m now ready to build a dedicated router table. My workspace is a 20’x20’ garage that I share with the family van. Space is limited and everything has to be mobile. My vision has always been to add an extension wing router table to my cabinet saw. My recent concern is keeping the table flat over time. I’ll incorporate a torsion top, but I fear the saw will get too heavy to move around. Do you think I’ll have long term success with the extension wing or should go with a stand alone router table? I look forward to the input, keep up the good work!

Thanks

Jacob from North Carolina

2) Hi Guys, I love the show. I don’t have any woodworking buddies, so I love the Q&A format because you answer a lot of questions I have as a newish woodworker. I’ve been looking at building a new workbench and like any good woodworker, I’m doing too much research and not enough building. My question is about work holding. What types of vices do you guys prefer, why, what are the pros and cons. I was specifically debating between the Veritas twin screw or a Benchcrafted leg vice and could add a Moxon vice down the line if needed. Do you have any thoughts on either of these? I have a pretty small shop so I do mostly hand tool work since I don’t have much room for machines.
Thanks! Matt

Our Instagram picks:

Huy: @Mcintyrefurniture
Sean: @gregoryraiewski
Guy: @Woodreview

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) Worst injury you’ve suffered from the shop? -Eric

2) I’m fairly new to woodworking and need to upgrade my job site saw to a more robust table saw with good fence options. This is just a hobby so I won’t be running it 40hrs a week. The problem is that I don’t have 220v near the garage and future plans include relocating the workshop to the other side of the property so it would be a waste to pay an electrician to run a new 220 circuit to the garage. I’ve been looking at the Powermatic PM1000 or the Grizzly G0833P hybrid saw. Both can be wired for 110 and 220 and seem to have enough power for the type of woodworking I do. Bobby 

Seans Questions:

1) Hey guys! Love the podcast. If you’ve already addressed it please direct me to the episode, but otherwise, Pre-finish… I hear of/see people doing it but don’t understand. Do you pre-finish to get the colour you want, then finish for the durability and or level of gloss? And what combinations of products work? I wouldn’t have thought all products will adhere to an oil for instance. Cheers, Mark

2) Hey guys! The show is phenomenal and your content is inspiring. Do you ever follow up with past customers to see how your furniture pieces have aged? I’m always trying to learn new things and get better in the craft. A feedback loop or some kind of retrospective (Shawn, as a software guy you might appreciate that…) would help to get some insight on what design or construction choices worked well and what might need some tweaking. Maybe that’s opening up pandora’s box and is ill-advised, just curious as to your opinions. Firelight_1226

Huys Questions:

1) Okay, I’ve got another one for you three. I finished up installing the riser block on my powermatic bandsaw and after quite a bit of time getting everything tweaked and dialed for regular use with a standard blade.it seems great now but I want to address my fence situation before attempting resawing with my 3/8” woodslicer blade. What fences/styles of fences do you guys prefer for resawing. The one that came with the saw is quite short and so I’m thinking something that is tall but switchable to shorter for smaller pieces. I’m seeing aftermarket options from Kreg, Shopfox, Laguna, and MuleCab. They have a broad range of prices and that Laguna Driftmaster is like $400 so I just don’t know where to start or if you guys like the fences with the D-shaped bump in the center for guiding the wood on. And then to follow that, what kind of feather boards do you prefer, if at all, when resawing. So grateful for the time you spend on this podcast for our community, keep up the great work! Jonathan Scott Woodworks

2) My hobby has been transitioning lately toward commissions, and so I find myself consider things like time and cost more than when making gifts or just myself. (Good, you should be.)
I wonder how you make decisions about things like joinery (example, mortise and tenon vs a pocket screw, hand-cut vs. machine cut), materials, finish (shellac vs poly when you’re worried about the end user’s abuse) etc. Basically, what things do you consider when it is a piece for sale and what factors do you use when making those decisions?
When might you turn down a job? As a beginner in the commission market, should I take jobs that are good experience even if they aren’t technically a profit? I do have a day job that pays the bills.
Finally, do you ever consider it based on the tools you have? Would you ever make a purchase for a job and not consider it part of what the client pays for because it makes the job faster or easier down the line?
Thank you all for your input.
Peter Downing

Our Instagram Picks:

https://www.instagram.com/brianrobertson_furniture/

https://www.instagram.com/thepoplarshop/

https://www.instagram.com/ferrazzuttifurniture/

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions

1) I’ve been enjoying the podcast and all the content you produce on your YouTube and Instagram accounts. I wanted to ask a question about plywood. I’m wondering what’s the best way to make sure the that plywood is square before breaking it down to more manageable pieces for the table saw? I know you shouldn’t really trust that the factory edges are square so I’m just a little confused on how you get the sheet square if you don’t have a reliable edge to reference off. I don’t have a track saw in my tool collection yet so I’m using a circular saw and a straight edge. I might be over thinking this and confusing myself but if you can provide some insight or a good way of accomplishing this task that would be awesome. Thanks for the great info you guys provide!

2) What’s your favorite wood species to work with and why?

Seans Questions

1) Hey guys, podcast has been great but it feels like forever since there was a question about finishing  My question is about what kinds of finishes you guys use on drawer boxes. Specifically, for something like a kitchen cabinet, a shop cabinet, and a drawer box in a furniture piece like a dresser or a nightstand. I know there are concerns about off-gassing of oil based finishes inside cabinets. Curious about what you recommend.

2) Give me a 101 level primer in getting started in spraying finishes. What type of machine should I buy and what kind of finishes/paint should I spray?

Huys Questions

1) Huy mentioned last week some tips regarding wood movement and the process of keeping a table top flat, and that the 2 most important aspects were to allow the wood to acclimate to your shop, and to properly mill the wood. I was wondering if you guys could speak a bit more to that. 
For example, how long do you allow the wood to acclimate to your shop? And are there any tips you’d be willing to share, or give examples of your process in regards to milling? How long is it okay to wait after the first milling to take it down to final dimensions? My shop currently is a non-insulated detached garage outside Chicago, where weather/humidity can change rapidly from one day to the next.

I really value the work you guys do and the information you give out each episode. Thank you for getting right into the Q&A and mostly for taking the time to share your skills and knowledge with those of us still learning.

2) Question about workbench tops. I’m planning to build a workbench in the near future. I’ve seen plenty of dog holes and understand the basic pros and cons but I’m considering a t-track top. Your thoughts on this are appreciated. 

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Guys Questions:

1) Hey guys. Love the pod! I have I think an easy question. This is my first project with hard woods other than poplar trimming. So here it goes…

I am making one of those balancing wine holders as a birthday gift but I want to dress it up a bit. I have a piece of hard maple. I want to frame the maple with a .5” -.75” strip of Purple Heart around it, mitered in the top corners. The overall dimensions will be about 15” x 5.5” My question is this. The top piece of Purple Heart would be running the grain perpendicular to the maple. Is this a bad idea? Should I cross cut that strip of PH so all the grain is running the length of the piece? -Jonvigorito

2) Thank you so much for putting out this podcast, it’s made my boring commute to work a whole lot more enjoyable!

My question is, what are your thoughts on using the Metric system in your shop? As an American woodworker, I primarily use Imperial units for measuring, but have found it easier to switch to Metric for certain tasks like dividing a space by an odd number.

Thanks again,
Justin

Seans Questions:

1) Wondering what you guys recommend for a good doweling jig, that can do both wide and thin stock? Also your opinion on the Triton Dowel jointer. – Christopher

2) Hey guys just started listening to your show, I’m new to woodworking and every episode I’ve learned something new from you guys. Love the show. I’m starting to work with hardwoods for the first time, been wanting to make cutting boards, coasters, cigar ash trays etc. looking into Thin Kerf blades but don’t know much about them. So my first question is are they necessary, and secondly which ones do you suggest(more on the low end of price) I’ve looked at Freud 10” 24T Ripping Saw & Amana Tool Mamba Series MA10024 Thin Kerf Ripping 10-Inch x 24 Tooth. Thanks in advance – Tom(Tom_the_Builder_17 on ig) 

Huys Questions:

1) Hey guys! I have a question regarding hand planes/Electric hand planes…

I am looking at buying an electric hand plane (likely the Triton 3 blade unlimited rebate planer) instead of a nice Veritas low angle plane. I don’t finish with a card scraper or smoothing plane as I haven’t had enough practice, yet I am very pleased with the results I get sanding. Am I crazy to think that an electric hand plane will do a great job at taking down high spots, to flatten a table top over a finely tuned hand plane? I’m finishing by sanding, so I don’t need the plane to leave a glassy smooth surface. I need the high spots gone and gone quickly. I ask because I don’t see many other woodworkers using this method, but in my mind it seems much more efficient (if finishing by sanding). I’d love to hear your response on the podcast. Nobile builds

2) Hey guys, I’m expanding my sharpening set up, and looking to add a grinder for initial squaring and hollow grinding. I am looking at cheap options and I’m torn between a slow speed 8 inch grinder, or the cheap wet grinder made by WEN. Do you have any recommendations or suggestions? Zacs wood studio