Category: Podcast Episodes

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This episode is sponsored by: Shaper Tools, makers of Shaper Origin

Sean

1) How often should I be cleaning my planer roller and do you know any plans to build a rolling lunchbox planer stand or cabinet.

I have the HD ridgid 12″ planer. So I guess a better question is how often should I change blades in jointer and planer and maintenance my cheaper tools I use daily. To rid of snip and a seemingly guy crooked planer bed? Broken_pine

2) Hello everybody. First time listener, long time caller. Wanted to hear of any shop items you use that would be more “eco-friendly”. An example that comes to mind is instead of using the disposable glue brushes using a silicone one. Thanks, Twin Lake Woodshop

Guy

1) My question is that I have two logs (from the same branch but non-contiguous), and need two nightstands, primarily composed of a 16″ w x 14″ h x 12″ deep mitered box/case. One log is dead straight grain and the other, beginnings of a crotch. Aesthetically, would each of you combine the two logs to make two “truly” matched (well bookmatched) nightstands, or use one log for each nightstand, matching grain WITHIN the individual nightstands, but not BETWEEN the pair? That’s confusing even reading it back so please contact me with any questions,

For reference the bed these will flank is a California king California king so there is a good deal of distance between them it’s not like they’ll be on on both sides of a twin. -Tom

2) Hey guys, from time to time I’ve been asking questions and you’ve always provided great advice. My question is, I’m tuning up my jointer and I have the tables co-planner within .002” out 18 inches from the cutter head. Is this close enough? Should I invest in a longer straightedge? Currently I’m using a 24” ruler from a good combination square. Looking online for straightedges, the Starrett 36” is $247.50 and it accurate within .0002”. I also found the Veritas 38” aluminum straightedge for $44.90 and is accurate to .003”. How strength of a straightedge do I need? And can I get away with an aluminum straightedge?  Thanks so much for your thoughts. -Mike Gitberg

Huy

1) I am a newbie in woodworking! and I’m working on my indoor stairs to the second floor. Stairs are completely removed and we plan to have an open riser 3 1/2″ thick tread. I have somebody who confirmed the structure and adapted it to city codes for me. So nothing dangerous is happening here.

I am trying to get the costs down while I like the walnut looks and because of that I am thinking of ripping and altering grain on 2″x12″ nominal lumber from the big box store and making 3″ x 11½” x 37½’ butcher block of yellow southern pine (construction grade, kilin dried) and veneer it with 1/4″ walnut.

I am buying a 16′ 2×12 kiln dried yellow southern pine and will start ripping it after stocking it for a month in my garage.

Should I be worried about wood movement?  I mean movement between walnut and SYP. I am not worried about SYP core because I have one of them made two month ago and it’s been staying inside with us and cupping/twisting, has not been observed. 

Will the 1/4 glued walnut veneer is a good idea for this application in term of resisting wear and tear?

I am using regular glue for making the core. any advice on glue for making the core and veneer?

Will you approach same method to do this project? If not, What will you do? vafa

2) G’day team
It’s the old guy (older than Guy) from Australia who potters around in the shed in his thongs ( Aussie footwear Guy )
I recently bought a Dewalt 735 thicknesser because I like to use reclaimed wood but I really don’t have a clue what I am doing but you need to start somewhere.
Anyway I recently used the thicknesser on a couple of large pine blanks that came from some sort of industrial packaging which were approx 5 inches wide and 3 inches tall ( I used imperial for you guys)
I ran both blanks through the thicknesser  ” jointing” one side first by using a planer sled and some shims and then running the other side through squaring up the sides to each other and then gluing both pieces together to make a blank for a bandsaw box, everything seemed good at this stage.
I started to cut the blank on the bandsaw only to realise that it wasn’t square to the table and that I had actually made a square block that was tilted ( I think it’s called a parallelogram, I wanted to use a big word so Huy would feel at home)
How can I square this up ? The block is approx 5 by 5 inches and my table saw height is 3 inches.
I probably did this all backwards but even though I’m old enough to remember dust being invented I still like to learn.
Do I need to buy a jointer ?
Thanks for your help  (ps, the nurse is cranky with me because I took some other guys slippers and won’t take my medication, hope you guys get this while I’m still alive………still no Sawstop) -Geoff

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

This episode is sponsored by: Shaper Tools, makers of Shaper Origin

Guy

1) I recently discovered your podcast and it has drastically improved my hour long commute to and from work. I began making attempts at creating things with wood about a year and 1/2 ago after wandering into a woodcraft and seeing all of the beautiful exotic species in person.  I made afew cutting boards and smaller items,  but nearly gave up because my few feeble attempts at joinery completely tanked. I’m kind of a high energy/ ADHD person with almost no attention span, and woodworking just wasn’t working for me. Then I found wood turning, and  found it to be extremely satisfying, almost therapeutic. I still have a long ways to go, but I no longer feel completely incompetent and have made several decent items. I eventually hope to learn some joinery techniques and attempt some small furniture type items.

I recently purchased a Jet JWBS -15 bandsaw and so far have been very pleased with it. It has a large cast iron table along with cast iron wheels. The only thing it’s missing is a brake, but since it’s my first bandsaw, I don’t miss it. This particular model, however is not carried by most of the wood working stores and very few people even mention it other than Shawn. Is there a reason why this saw is not popular? The only issue I have is that I go through bandsaw blades like water. I typically use either a green wood blade or the timber wolf 3/8” 4tpi blades and have not gotten more than a month of light use from any. Is this normal?   I cut a lot of rosewoods, ebony and dense exotic turning blanks.  I considered getting a carbide blade but they are upwards of $200 for my saw. Any thoughts? Nicole

2) Hey guys, you’ve answered a few of my questions over the years so I’m now running out of ways to say how awesome this podcast is. I just want y’all to know that it’s been extremely insightful, helpful, inspirational, and motivational (oh yeah, and funny). Woodworking is a great stress reliever for me and your podcast motivates me to keep at it, so thanks again.

My question today is about how to determine the weight-bearing capacity of something you build. I generally don’t build off plans. I find inspiration from photos online and then create my own design, but this sometimes means I’m deciding how much support to give certain pieces. For example, I recently completed an outdoor bench with planter boxes on either side. I really didn’t know how much I needed to do to support the bench and the weight of those who might sit on it. It’s 4.5 feet long, so can fit up to 3 adults at a time.

I’ll describe what I did and send some photos, but if there are any rules of thumb or resources you can share that would be helpful in determining the weight capacity for furniture builds, I’d greatly appreciate it. Thanks again for the awesome podcast. Billy

Sean

1) Hey guys, I’m looking to purchase a better flush trim router bit. I’m comparing Whiteside bits UDFT 5152 and the UDC 9112 from Bits and Bits with the astra coating. Other than the bit diameter, cut length, and one having two bearings. What would make you choose one over the other if the bit diameter didn’t matter? Do you think the 9112 would run cooler due to the larger diameter? I plan on getting the 1/4″ compression flush trim bit for small curves. Thanks for all the real world advice you give. Matt in AL

2) I’m building a console-style liquor cabinet that will have a walnut slab top. The slab is 1-1/2 inches thick, 60 inches long, and 16 inches wide. I’ll be using an oil finish and am wondering whether I should apply the oil finish to both the top and bottom of the slab… or if just finishing the top (and edges, of course) is enough. It’s my first time working with a slab and I don’t want to screw it up!

Thanks for the great show! – Dan

https://www.woodshopnews.com/columns-blogs/finishing-both-sides-is-warped-thinking Article mentioned during Podcast.

Huy

1) Great show, love it! I have a small shop in Denmark, and recently I talked to a rep from Festool that told me not to sand my wood before all cutting is done, as the small sand grits would make your blades dull. What are your thought on this? Thanks, Ali @toolguy.dk

2)Hello from one of your dedicated listeners! 

My question concerns a router dropping bits.  The router in question is a fairly new Triton TRA001  3 1/4 HP plunge router.  Three times now, while making a fairly easy pass, the bit has dropped out.  The first time it happened was while I was cutting a quarter inch deep rabbet on a half inch cherry panel.  The bit cut a hole in the panel and ruined it as it fell straight down onto the floor. The two other times have been while cutting a 3/8 inch deep dado through some 3/4 inch maple ply.  

Any advice would be welcome.  And thanks for all the thoughtful and informed conversations about woodworking. Martin

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

This episode is sponsored by: Shaper Tools, makers of Shaper Origin

Sean

1)Thank you all great information from both the podcast.

Right now I have a woodriver spoke shave, wood river shoulder plane, i have buck brothers #4 four plane and block plane, both from home depot, totaling $50.  I have learned to sharpen well and get whispy shaving and a mirror surface on most woods.  Though the plane seems to loose it’s setting quickly and the blade chips on any thing harder then pine. 

I have some money and want to buy a new plane.  I only have about $350 to spend.  Which plane would you recommend? I think Bevel up veritas or wood river and buying a second 50 degree blade. Scott

2) Thanks for the informative podcast.

I have a  question regarding dado blades.  I have a 10 inch delta table saw (36-725T2), and I am wondering what blade to get.  Most of the dado blades I see for sale are 8″, and some 6″.  Being that my table saw motor is not overly powerful , would a 6″ blade be better to reduce the weight?  What are your recommendations on size and maybe some brands you have used and suggest?   Thanks. Trevor

Guy

1) I have a question about drilling pilot holes for wood screws. There seem to be 2 types of pilot hole/contersink bits. One style has a straight bit and the other style has a tapered bit. I have read conflicting information about the different types.

1. Are the tapered bits only for tapered screws and the straight bits for newer straight shank woodscrews or are the tapered bits preferable for everything?
2. When drilling the pilot holes should I drill a larger hole through the top board to pull the boards closer?
3. If using the tapered bits how is the countersink adjust for longer or shorter screws as the hole depths are different?
4. Should I just forget about the combination drill/countersink bits and use a separate drill and coutersink.

Thanks for your advice. Bob

2) I recently started monetizing my woodworking skills as a side hustle, which has been great as it has allowed me to upgrade a lot of my tool arsenal. I just bought a Sawstop professional cabinet saw, and of course, the differences between it and a jobsite saw are night and day. I have managed to cut both of my hands on 2 separate occasions with my DeWalt table saw (without removing digits, fortunately), so if there ever was a person who needed to invest in a Sawstop, I am that man.

I think my next buy will be a Festool (most likely) track saw, or perhaps a helical blade planer. Currently my bread-and-butter work tends to be sliding barn doors. I don’t claim to be an extremely highly skilled woodworker who does intricate joinery at this point; I simply realized that I could capitalize on my accrued skills and make smaller-scale projects for extra “shop money”. 

The one tool I have not invested in yet is a Jointer. I highly desire to have one but I have been able to get by for this long without it, so I am in no particular hurry to get one.

My question is this: How beneficial does having a jointer tend to be in your experience, and is it something you use all the time? Is it something you would consider a must have for any serious woodworker?

I apologize for this being long-winded. Thanks in advance. Nate

Huy

1)Good Evening Gentlemen….and I use that term loosely

I have been blessed to be a Dad for a little son who is now 3.5 years old. 

I have had him out in the workshop trying out some of the tools….spokeshaves, hand planes, drill press, clamps and vises, and some other hand tools that I deem safe under direct supervision.  It is so much fun to see the wheels turn as he experiments with them. 

I have made a decision to expose and introduce him to these experiences early on in the hope of planting the seed for curiosity and establishing a foundation of fundamental skills and understanding of how things are created. 

I do worry though as he becomes comfortable with different tools, he will eventually want to try and experiment on his own.  I am always reinforcing that he is not allowed to do things without me, but at some point, I do worry that he might try and do things while I am gone. 

At this time, I flip all of the breakers for the power tool circuits and I am comfortable with this solution now, however, as he gets older and might understand why I am opening and closing that grey panel, I am looking for some more control of when things run. 

Are you guys aware of any solutions with new smart breakers ect that would allow more direct control over how and when circuits can have power?  I have looked online at square D’s website and I am not finding a simple solution for this in terms of a retro fit solution on a standard electric panel.  It seems like a few smart breakers that are password protected would be a perfect solution. 

Some of the tools have those yellow plastic inserts in the switch, but I was looking for something a little more elegant to control the power at the circuit level. 

Benjamin and I often listen to the show after the lights go out for bed time, so if you can keep the jokes reasonably clean that will save me some explaining later for his mother.  Love the show and keep up the great work. Brad

2) Thanks for your podcast, I enjoy it tremendously and it is obvious that the three of you are really good friends!

I recently saw a short Y.T. video from WWGOA/George Vondruska about a track saw guide rail set that can be adapted to almost any regular circular saw,  and provides accurate straight line cutting of sheet goods and dimensional lumber on a standard track rail.  (Please see the video on YT from WWGOA: “Benefits of a Track Saw | Woodworkers Guild of America “)

It would appear that you can buy these track saw rails and adapter plate,  and if the instructions are followed correctly,  bolt your regular circular saw to a base that indexes on their track accurately and with repeatability for making straight cuts.  The purpose of this is to reduce the expense of buying a single purpose saw, when you already generally have one that can be used for this purpose.

The adapter plate is bolted to your regular circular saw base with 4 bolts. (Which are supplied by True Trac), using a guide to index for square positioning of the saw onto the adapter plate.  The guide rail track is then trimmed perfectly using the saw, and performance at that point is identical to any other track saw.

There are several video clips on YT about this track, and it’s available on Amazon as well as direct from the manufacturer.

It gets excellent reviews if you place any faith in them.

I believe all 3 if you esteemed gentlemen already have either the Festool or Makita track saws & guide rails, so you are extremely knowledgeable and experienced with this type of device.

Your thoughts,  please?

Thanks again for your great service to the woodworking community.

John Malcolm

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

This episode is sponsored by: Shaper Tools, makers of Shaper Origin

Sean

1)Hey guys,

Thanks for all of the knowledge you guys pass on over this platform, it’s great being able to learn from others more well versed in woodworking than myself, especially when it seems that serious hobbyists are few and far between where I’m at. My question is about shellac, which it seems you guys talk about every  other, if not every, episode. Because I live in California, denatured alcohol cannot be purchased, even through Amazon. I’ve heard of people using Everclear as a substitute for denatured alcohol, but as research shows, everclear looks to be banned in California as well.

What else can I use to dissolve these shellac flaked ?? Thanks again for the sick content, Tyler

2) Before I ask my question, I just wanted to thank you for your feedback on my last project. The advice you gave me about the box I was working on was perfect. Thank you! Hoping to get your input again.

I have about $1,500 to spend on a bandsaw. Resawing is the priority. Bang for the buck is important, but in this case I could be convinced to set aside another couple hundred or so since I think that the “buy once, cry once” approach could be worth it.

If I remember correctly, Guy has a Powermatic, and I remember seeing Sean’s YouTube video about the Hammer. Not sure what Huy has. Regardless, I’m very interested in your thoughts, whether you like what you have, and whether there are other options that I should consider.

Thanks again for a great podcast and for being so generous with your experience. I’m a big fan. Keep them coming! John

Guy

1) What is the most challenging project you’ve ever completed? What made it challenging? How did you approach the problem-solving required to overcome the challenge? Help us listeners get “in your shoes” and learn from your approach to tackling challenges in woodworking by providing a specific example from your experience. Thanks for all the insights you continue to share on the best woodworking podcast in the universe!

From the other side of the wall, Brian Schmidt

2)You all are an inspiration to me and have always given honest legitimate answers to thousands of questions through the years for so many folks. I’d like to know who  was an inspiration to you as you were growing as a craftsman? Especially Guy since he came up in the trade before the internet and social media. Secondary question if you had the chance to meet or learn from one craftsman, who would that be? Brent Jarvis

Huy

1)Kind sirs-

After my last couple of diatribes I’ll endeavor to keep this question brief. My wife is a lovely, patient woman and for Valentine’s Day I would love to make a pair of nightstands she’s been hinting at for a while. Of course, I would have needed to start those two months ago to have any chance at making February 14th. But maybe for next year, with your help.

I’ll be making these out of some walnut scavenged from the power company clearing lines. I took two roughly 18″ long x 24″ diameter logs, and hand-ripped them into rough parts (1″ panels, 2″ leg stock) about 18 months ago with this in mind, they’ve been air-drying since.

My conundrum is that these logs are from BRANCHES – the actual tree, still standing, is about 6′ in diameter. So for nightstands, wanting a roughly 16″ x 22″ top, though my inclination is to use the nicest “slabs,” maybe get a little sap wood in there, my gut tells me that will look nice for a year and then end up like Sean’s cherry table panels, especially because they’re air-dried.  In your esteemed opinions, should I further rip the slabs into dimensional lumber and then glue up panels for construction? Aesthetically, I could probably use some “traditional” furniture, my wife says the house looks like the Keebler elf village already, we have a 14′ long 4″ thick live edge mantle, all maple trim with walnut plugs, and I use interesting off-cuts to trim windows.

That was brief, for me. Thanks Tom

2) Thank you so much for taking the time every two weeks to produce this outstanding podcast, which I have thoroughly enjoyed, and have integrated many of your ideas and tips into building my shop and developing skills as a woodworker.

I am in need of an outfeed table, and also a stable, dead flat assembly surface.  I think that Huy’s “MO/AT” is a terrific solution, but I have a few questions.

I know that the torsion box portion is based on Ron Paulk’s popular workbench, which includes the dog holes (that I really want to utilize for clamps, etc.), and the interior storage space.  Also, the removable hardboard surface, with its reference dowels, is a great idea that requires access inside the box.

However, I have watched torsion box build videos by Guy, Steve Johnson, Marc Spagnolo, and others, and their designs all differ in that they are thinner, and have a much denser array of “honeycomb” grid elements, which suggests to me a greater chance of remaining dead flat.  But of course, they do not allow for meaningful use of dog holes, or interior access.

So I am looking for the best compromise design, one that allows the dog hole array and all of the clamping options, but also has the best longevity for staying flat.  Is there a best height, best grid layout configuration that I can aim for? I’m thinking that between you three engineers, the perfect solution will be forthcoming.

Thank you, and please keep up this very much appreciated podcast! Best, Tom Stanley

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Guy

1)First I want to say fantastic podcast guys.  By far the best woodworking podcast out there.  I recently discovered the podcast and have binge listened to old past episodes while building the cabinets for our new home.

We are building a new home with a shop / garage combo and I finally have the space to buy the tools that I have never had the space to own before.  Next up on my list is a drill press and trying to decide what size to get.  Bench top model vs floor model, size motor, features to look for, etc.  I build furniture and cabinets mostly but like pushing my creative side and making other odd things as well.   I want the best bang for the money but don’t mind spending a little extra to get what will be my lifetime drill press.

Thanks for your help.  Keep up the good work.  Plan to be a long time listener but I didn’t buy a SawStop so I might die soon!  LOL. – Tom

2) My question is regarding learning more about design for my projects. Up to now most of my projects have been based on an existing design or product. I scroll Instagram, Pinterest, furniture store sites and find pieces similar to what I want and duplicate them or mash a few together to make my “own”. I’d like to start developing a design style of my own or pick a lane of design such as Mission or Greene and Greene and focus a little more on that.

Can you recommend any books or authors to give me a better understanding of the popular design periods that speak to the elements, features, woods used and so on for the various periods of design to help pick one?

I’d also be interested in any books that teach elements of a good design like proper proportions, and similar for furniture building so I can design and build a well balanced piece.

There is so much it might be impossible to put it all in a book, but you all offer good insight to us listeners so I’d welcome whatever you have to offer of any recommendations you might have. Thanks all! Mike

Sean

1) Gents – Found your show mid way through a 22-hour drive into Mexico. Listening to you – particularly Guy- reminds me of the people and shops I visited while a board  member of the San Joaquin Fine Woodworking  club in California. Simple, not too fussy advice that is useful for those picking up the woodworking hobby or far into the deep end this avocation. Keep up the good work.

You’ve spent a fair amount of time discussing the likes and dislikes of Waterlox. A recent project was a 42” x 78” patio table from 4/4 and 8/4 sapele. Legs are 5” square steel tube tapered and coped in a McIntosch style. As it would live outdoors, I opted to finish with Waterlox Marine Finish in gloss. Prep: Sand to 220 grit; vacuum and compressed air; wipe down with mineral spirits; apply Waterlox with a Jen foam brush. The first coat  was a disaster with dime size voids in the finish … as if the surface was waxed before the Waterlox went down.  I believe  the cause was the mineral spirits: I applied the finish about a half hour after after the wipe down … something I often do without issue with spar urethane. Subsequent coats went down fine after letting the piece off gas for four days. My thinking is the tung oil interacted with the residual solvent. Thoughts? Thanks – Craig P.S. Mentioned the foam brush brand because I’ve found it to be the only that rivals a high quality bristle brush for brush application

2)Hi guys, thanks for the podcast, really helpful info! Keep hearing your requests for more questions, so here are a few.

You talked a lot about dust extraction recently. I’ve seen people claiming that by replacing the filter bag with a fine cartridge filter people have seen major improvements in the performance of their extractor units. Do you have any experience with these? Thanks for all the time you put in, love listening.

Best wishes – Chris (UK based enthusiastic amateur)

Huy

1)Hi, long time listener that truly appreciates all of the wisdom and humor you have provided over the years in your great podcast.

I have a couple design questions for a sofa and a pair of side tables I am making for my living room.  They are a pretty simple design that uses mortise and tenon joinery for the aprons and legs.  I use my router with a 1/4″ bit to make the mortise, and the table saw with a dado blade to make the tenons.  The legs will be just under 2″ from the thickest material I can get from my 8/4 stock and about 28″ long.  The aprons will be 3/4″thick and 6″ tall, they could be slightly thicker, they will come from 4/4 stock.

I want to try my hand at piston fit drawers instead of using drawer slides.  How would you attach the inner structure that supports the drawers underneath and on the sides inside the table?  I don’t have a domino or biscuit joiner.  I have never had good results with pieces attached with pocket holes staying in place during installation and I am afraid the slight movement will ruin the piston fit. Thank you. Julio

2)Gentlemen-

Congratulations as you near your 100th episode, and well-deserved syndication riches. I’m about to complete my workbench of air dried black locust (top) and white oak (base). I am installing leg and twin screw tail vises. I will need to procure additional lumber for the thick components of both. I thought it might look nice to use some Walnut, but I can only get  12/4 kiln dried. I don’t see a problem with the leg chop, it’s attached with the vise hardware, but would dovetailing a kiln dried tail skirt onto an air dried laminated top would be asking for problems? Thank you for any advice or relevant anecdotes you may have.

Tom