Category: Podcast Episodes

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Sean

1)  If I use the 1/3 rule for the tenons on the aprons, the tenons would be 1/4″ thick if I use 3/4″ stock.  Do you think this is thick enough for a side/sofa table that won’t see much abuse? 

2) Hey guys, love the podcast! I have been following Sean’s box build and wanted to talk about box hinges. For side mount hinges, what’s your preferred installation method that works every time? It’s something I struggle with and would like some tips or tricks. Thanks, Deron

Guy

1) Thanks for the great podcast and answering a number of my questions in the past.  As with many of us I have a love hate relationship with finishing.  I have been using Shellac with a Rubber (I know Huy dislikes that term) using Guy’s method of preparing and using.  I’ve recently tried hard wax oil (Odie’s) which I like, but want to try spraying.  I have a Home Right Super Finish HVLP (ie CHEAP) Sprayer, can I use this for spraying Shellac?  I know recently Guy had mentioned that he pretty much just sprays shellac now.  If I do this would I prepare the ratio the same as I have been for rubbing?  Any tips or tricks you could share would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Doug

2) To my question, how do you guys balance getting stuff done vs quality?  Is quality always important? Thanks again Liam

Huy

1) What is your favorite species of wood to work on with hand tools  and why? Michael

2) I want to make a bow front bedroom set (night stands, chest of drawers and dresser). I plan to make the draw fronts out of bending ply and 1/16 shop sawn veneer. I was considering sawing them out of 12/4 or 16/4 cherry but some of the drawers will be 10 inches tall and I’m concerned about the stability of the wood over time.

After I bend and glue up the drawer fronts, How should I square up the ends so they are parallel plus have a flat on the back for the draw sides? Also, I usually hand cut dovetails when making drawers, since the fronts will basically be plywood, I am thinking this will be difficult. Is there another technique that you could suggest that would be strong, yet simple to make?

Also, the dresser will be two drawers wide with a single bow (each drawer will have a half bow). Whatever technique I use to make the drawer fronts on the end tables and chest of drawers will need to be different for these drawers, how do you suggest I square up the ends and create a flat on the back for the dresser drawers?

Mike

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guy

1) Gentlemen-

Enjoying, as always, the podcast. Especially with the recent addition of my questions, and your informative, insightful, and obviously thoroughly researched and considered thoughts on my quandaries.

Onto my current woodworking-related predicament. I find myself both lacking a proper workbench, and having a surplus of black locust and white oak from my aforementioned shed project. My current workbench is a tall (40″) dining room table- when it served as such, it came as set with stools, not chairs. From Bloomingdales. For $2600 f@CKING DOLLARS! IT’S MDF SCREWED TOGETHER! Who gets a tall dining room table as the only horizontal surface in a 400 square foot Manhattan apartment? My ex-wife. Because that makes sense and if it doesn’t you are in the bad boy corner. Word of advice to your listeners – if your fiancée insists on haircuts that cost more than a Woodpeckers router lift, don’t. Just don’t and run and make up an excuse, but don’t. Ever. 5 months of hard lessons right there.

But I digress.

I have enough black locust to make a 26″ x 78″ top at about 3.5″ thick. My lumber dimensions range (rough, not nominal) from 4x4s to 2×10’s. The only bench top dimension limited by the lumber is the thickness. I feel like I want a “girth-ier” bench. The legs are going to be 4×6 white oak with 2×6 stretchers and in the drawings the top looks out of proportion.

I’m a big feller (6’4″) and I generate a lot of force with my hand tool work. I don’t want to bring the base dimensions down to suit the current possible top thickness.

So do you think I should suck it up and go grab some more 2×6+ and get me a 6″ thick top?

The goal here is to get rid of all of this black locust – it’s not good for woodworking, it’s the best for outdoor building, but I want to get back to woodworking.

But my parents, who live nearby, need a cathouse. The kind for sheltering an outdoor animal, not housing prostitutes. So I could potentially use the excess to make that impervious to the elements, and make my mom happy. Because apparently Jeff told her his little bitty feet get cold on the stone patio, and my dad built what looks like a homeless encampment out of tarps and pallets as a temporary shelter.

But I digress.

Tell your listeners to look @figurawoodwork on instagram they can see what I am talking about. I’m going to send you a pic direct so you don’t have to dig around. Continue the superlative work, may your blades stay sharp, and your fences square. Tom

2)Hey,

Thanks so much for the podcast! I have a delta contractor saw 36-725T2.  I’m very happy with the saw and it happens to line up with my work bench well.  The one thing I’m struggling with is, I feel the table is a little tall.  I need to really stain to look straight down on the blade to line up fine joiner cuts.  Such as diver tails and tenons.  I thought of lowering the saw but I like my bench height, and don’t have room for an outfeed table and a bench. Which height is more important? Scott

Huy

1) Hey fellas! Love the podcast and the wealth of info you share. I’m building a dining room table out of old growth fir. I know it’s a bit silly to use such a soft wood for such a high traffic piece, but the wood came from a 12×12 post that was holding up part of my childhood home.

I’ve inset some brass pins and tubes in a flowing pattern on the table top and plan to finish it with Osmo oil ebony stain for colour to contrast the brass, but I’m stuck on what to do for an impact resistant top coat. Have any of you used a foam roller to roll on epoxy and build a couple of coats up? Would an epoxy with high solids be more durable than other more ‘tried and true’ finishes? The table is being gifted to my brother in law and they have a veeeery active toddler, so dents are inevitable but I’d like to protect it as best I can without doing an epoxy pour-over. Apologies if this question has been asked as I’m only on Ep 22! Thank you from Vancouver, BC – Bruce

1) As I sit here coughing and assuring everyone it isn’t covid I just have lungs full of Sapele, I thought to myself… The woodshop life guys can maybe help me. I try my best to wear all my PPE but I often find myself choosing between lung protection and eye (and ultimately hand) protection. I have tried many different masks and

Eye protection but every time if I am wearing both the glasses fog up and I can’t see so I take off the mask. What do you all wear or have you used to overcome this. I have seen the full face mask with Ac blowers but I can’t spend 500 and need something economical

Will

2) Great podcast fellas, such a wealth of knowledge.  My question is about Sherwin Williams Hi-Build Precat Lacquer (low gloss white).  I’ve been spraying it thru my Fuji for a few years.  I know SW can tint it but I have a big assortment of trans tint dye.  Wondering if it works as well as SW tints.  Thanks David Morton ,Central Kentucky

Sean

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Sean

1) My question for you is regarding finishing. I have used an alcohol based dye and sealed it with shellac as ‘it sticks to everything and everything sticks to it’. I’m also using a water based poly over that. Specifically regarding the legs, they are an upside down ‘U’ shape or ‘A’ shape and I have them set up to brush on the poly. Would you finish the outward face and edges first, let dry and then flip to do the inner face (legs are laying flat on painters pyramids that are set up on top of the table saw). Or would you poly all sides at once and try to touch up finger marks as you go?

If I were to spray the poly, what would be my order of operations (spray one side and all edges first or all sides at once). What about orientation of the table legs (lay flat/ stand them up/hang from a wire?)
The poly I’m using is Zar Premium Finishes fast drying semi gloss. It says on the container ‘do not thin’ if spraying can I disregard this and add up to 10% water to lower the viscosity as I might with other finishes?

Thank you so very much for such an in depth dive into this glorious craft. Bruce

2) Thanks for answering my last question on stickering new cherry boards in a horizontal rack. I did sticker them and they stayed stable but in the future I will probably not if they are kiln dried as I have limited space and need to maximize.
I just completed a shaker end table with the cherry I had bought and realized when putting the top on that the painter’s pyramids that I used to hold the top while I was applying the finish left dents in the top. I finished the top with a coat of BLO and then five coats of shellac. The finish looks great but the dents are ruining the look of the smooth top. I know you can steam the dents out but I am afraid to try this as I do not want to damage the finish. What are your thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks again,
Jim

Guy

1) Hi guys… I’m a truck driver and listen to your podcast allot.
Guy,, do you still use your Incra TSLS fence? Why don’t we see more woodworkers using them? Even on YouTube the videos are years old. Your thoughts please. Brent

2) Name a tool that you have that you’re not particularly happy with, but  for some reason have not upgraded, and give your reasons why you haven’t bit the bullet and bought a better version of that tool?

Huy

1) Gentlemen- I [insert enthusiastic verb] your podcast, and think you all are etc..I have a…different…finishing question. I am about to complete a small timber framed shed. No fasteners used except 4 hurricane straps and nails for the roof deck. Guy you would hate your life here all the mortise and tenon joinery was cut by hand. The frame base, flooring, and siding are black locust, the rest of the beams are SPF. All locally sawn, and then transported on the roof of my Subaru. The roof is going to be a living moss roof (i have no lawn only moss on 4 acres). I went through the trouble of bookmatching the siding when I made it, and even though black locust will last 100 years outdoors, I would like to, as the kids say, “pop” the grain. Would you recommend any sort of oil-based finish? I know i would have to reapply periodically which isn’t a problem, however sanding would be. I live about an hour outside of NYC, we have seasons. Any other info you need feel free to ask. Thanks. Tom

2)  I recently bought a combination machine (itech c300). It’s a HUGE step up for me, and I’m worried about neglecting something because of my own ignorance. What would you say are requirements for servicing induction motors? Any other tips or tricks for someone who has just upgraded to a serious piece of kit for the first time?

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Sean

1) Recall an instance when you messed up at a critical step in a build. Then describe what you did to shake off the setback, and what if anything, you did to save the project? Michael

2) Hey guys, I have a question about “chasing the burr” when sharpening plane irons.

I use a veritas mark II guide and get a great polish on my PM-V11 plane irons with a 12,000 grit Shapton stone. After the microbevel has a consistent sheen all the way across, I take the iron out of the guide and use the ruler trick to remove the burr. I’ve tried swiping back and forth just once all the way up to 7 or 8 times.

Sometimes I can shave my forearm hairs at that point, but often have to go to a strop for a few passes before doing the ruler trick again on the 12,000 grit stone.

Since I primarily use bevel up planes with differing blade angles, I’d really prefer not to have to use the strop because it’s hard for me to tell what angle I’m at when stropping freehand.

Do you guys have any advice that can help me remove the burr without having to chase it? Damon

Huy

1) I’m moving to a new basement shop with no windows. My concern is about overhead lighting.

Did you use program to help layout of design?  I’m working on tool and dust collector now.

Also I’m leaning to 4’ LED at 5k color.  Suggestions?  Thanks, Chris Hough

2) My current project required extensive use of a tongue and groove bit set (specifically the Freud adjustable kit) to make siding and flooring. My next project is a set of cabinets for my laundry room (lowers, uppers, and a full-height pantry). Shaker-style, no profiles on the cope-and-stick frames. Is there any reason I shouldn’t / can’t use the T&G set to route the rails and stiles for the cabinet doors and frames, and should purchase a set with a more “refined” profile? I like the Freud kit, you can really dial in the fit, especially for veneered center panels, but all the cool kids on the interwebs seem to use specific, profiled bits. I should mention I saw Guy did a video with an adjustable set, but you know what they say – don’t trust anyone over 40 (I’m 44). Regardless there are 3 of you, so death match over it or something.

The cabinets will be made of hard maple which I know is a P.I.T.A. to work with and route cleanly, but I got a tree in the kiln and the T&G I just finished was over 1000 linear feet of Black Locust, so whatever I do will be relatively easy. Frame of reference – Huy, the Honey Locust you had a hard time on your daughter’s…bassinet(?) with is 1580lbf Janka. Black Locust is 1700. Hard Maple – pffft only 1450. Cherry/Walnut right around 1000.

Thanks for the advice. I’m starting on these in early December, so I’ll probably use whatever answer you provide in early January (in case your recent requests for questions have resulted in a backlog). Thanks for keeping it real. Tom

Guy

1) I have a question about cleaning my 3 HP dust collector with dual canisters. I have the Grizz G0562 but I assume that the Jet, Powermatic and other brands similar models are maintained the same. How often, if ever, should I clean the canisters and how best to do that? I recently gave my shop the semiannual leaf blower clean and when I passed the blower in front of the canisters I saw a huge amount of fine dust drop down into the bag. I somewhat often spin the handle on top of the canister but that doesn’t seem to release anything noticable. Thanks fellas, keep up the great work! Jeremy

2) Enjoy the podcast and this is the second time I’ve submitted a question.  You addressed my first question very well so let’s see if we can go 2 for 2.
I hear you guys, especially Guy, touting the benefits of shellac.  I’m not feeling the love personally.  Now I don’t use flakes and mix my own which may be the problem.  I use the Zinzer product and brush it on.  I have trouble with uneven coats, some areas drying too fast keeping me from working with a wet edge.  Lots of runs and just generally uneven and ugly.  I hear you talking about spraying which I can do but haven’t tried that yet.  When spraying what do you use to clean the sprayer?  I’m using ammonia per instructions to clean my brushes but not thrilled with using it on the sprayer.
Do I just need to start mixing my own to get a decent finish?  Also the Zinzer leaves too much of a glossy finish, how do I get more satin? Tom

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Huy

1) Gentlemen- Had two questions, figured I would break them into two missives to keep it organized. Again, thank you for podcast.

What are some non-tool, non-woodworking-related “things” that make your time in the shop more enjoyable or productive? For example, for me, it might be my Sirius XM or Amazon Music subscriptions, pot, or the cage I keep my children in. Huy, in your old shop, maybe your mini-split. Do you have anything like that? If you say “blue tape” Mike Pekovich will eat your soul. Tom

2) I’m cutting a 7×5” opening into the countertop of a washer/dryer surround made of 3/4” walnut plywood, in order to access the water shut off if ever needed.

Anyways, I’d ultimately like to figure out a way to cut the opening and reuse the off-cut piece as the new “lid” for the opening. I have a 1/8” spiral trim bit for my router and thought to plunge it down to begin the cut… then follow the template I made.

I feel like there not a lot of room for error here… any suggestions for cutting openings in order to grain match and reuse the off-cut piece?

Thanks! Chris

Guy

1) Hey guys, Figured I’d ask your opinion on shop ceiling heights.  I’ve been planning on building a new detached shop/garage next year.  My original design is a shed roof with an interior height of  12’ on the high side and 9’ on the low side.

 But recently I’ve been thinking  maybe a gable roof with a dormer would be nice. Which could make room for a loft however the ceiling height would end  up around 9’ or 10’.

Other than stacking lumber vertically, I don’t see the advantage of 12’ ceilings. Side note, I was planning on running some dust collection through the slab floor. Thanks as always, Jesse Beechland Furniture

2) I usually build cabinets with doors and drawers overlapping the face frame. However I would like to inset the drawers on a pair of Shaker style side tables that I am building. How much gap (1/16″, 1/8″ should I plan for between the drawers and face frame. Drawer face is just under 6″ wide. I live in the Intermountain West and it remains pretty dry all year.

After I get the position set, any tips to temporarily hold drawer faces in position on the drawers until I can install screws from the inside? Wild Horse Woodworking

3) I’ve gotten a couple requests from family members wanting some items with the “modern farmhouse” look – specifically rough-sawn boards for some of the ‘show’ faces.  Given that most of the tools in my shop were purchased with the intention of making wood nice and smooth and square… I was wondering if you have any tips/tricks for intentionally creating a rough-sawn look on boards. Thanks, Monte