Category: Podcast Episodes

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Sean

1)Wanted to start out by saying thank you for making my 30 min drive to and from work some of the most enjoyable and informative time of my day. My question is regarding lumber storage; I have a small one car garage shop that has a slight twist from the norm. Though it is a “garage” it is built over a basement and has a thick wooden floor. The basement space is unused and is connected to the basement of the house via a door. Do you guys think the atmospheric conditions in the basement would differ enough from the above garage space as to cause issues if I used it for my lumber storage area. My shop is well organized but pretty tight. I’ll have storage in the shop for smaller wood and I have a dedicated shelve system under my miter saw station to store all the parts for a single project minus larger sheet goods. I want to use the basement to keep 200-300 board feet to allow it to acclimatize to my shop. Side note, the basement space under the garage has a small garage door for lawnmower storage so air transfer will be similar to the garage above.

I know Guy I’ll comment so here is the answer, no I don’t park my car over the basement on the wooden floor. Thanks guys and keep up the great work. Brian

2) Hey guys, love the podcast. You guy’s, all, have jointer/planers with carbide cutter heads. What kind of finish are you getting with these? Is scraping or sanding still needed for a final finish, or are your parts ready for finish? Are these cutter heads, all they are cracked up to be? Ken

Guy

1) Thanks the great podcast!  I’ve been catching up on them recently; not quite all the way though.  Haven’t heard Guy use ‘specificity’ for a while, so if you could see to that I’d appreciate it! 😉

This question is about pocket hole joints and the need for glue – or not.  Given that pocket hole joints most commonly involve butt joints, i.e. short grain to long grain, is it really worth adding glue to the mix?  Part of me wonders whether with plywood having alternating grain direction to the layers might offset that a little?  I realize that it probably doesn’t hurt anything in the long run, but it seems like it just makes everything more slippery and difficult to align. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks and keep up the good work, Monte

2) I’m interested in what you’d recommend for a beginner-friendly spray finish setup for occasional use on projects ranging from small boxes on up to possibly cabinets – if it’s even feasible for one setup to cover that kind of range.  If not, what would you recommend for one vs. the other. Thanks and keep up the great work, Monte

Huy

1) So it seems every time I install hinges there is some issue with them, whether it’s a lid not closing flush, a door that swings open, or spacing around a door not being consistent. I will qualify that I rarely if ever use “quality” hinges. I’m more likely to use home center or the cheaper Rockler/Woodcraft options.

Can you give any advice on having the best success with hinges? Both by hand and using power tools, please. I consider myself a decent woodworker but this continues to be an issue for me. Peter

2) I have been binge listening to your podcasts for the last several weeks and I am loving it. I love the format (especially compared to the other podcasts out there). I have learned a lot from listening to you as a new wood worker. I finally found and went to a hardwood dealer near me and bought some beautiful 5/4 and 8/4cherry. I put it on my lumber rack to acclimate to my shop. They are on a Bora horizontal rack. Do you recommend sticking them to allow air flow all around or should I just 
stack one on top of the other? I look forward to your next show and hopefully I make it.

Thanks,
Jim

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Sean

1) Can we talk about chisels? I know I need to get some in order to start inlaying, but I’m struggling to spot the differences (other than price) between chisels. I’m happy to sharpen my own before use. Bearing that in mind, what features should I look for? What do you each use? Why are some chisels SO expensive? Chris

2) I am Gøran from Nomad Makes on Youtube and Instagram. I am currently on my 3rd binge listen on the podcast and enjoy it immensely.

I recently watched Sean’s video an making the William and Mary Highboy and noticed him using carbide tipped tools when turning.

I know Guy has said he is not a very proficient turner. And Sean also asked the viewers to go easy in that video. However you guys turn very well for being «not proficient» and only turning occasionally. Which is why I thought you would be perfect for answering this question, as I really don’t turn that often either.

Excluding a Tormek style grinder, since I don’t have the space. My shop is 132ft2 and I have crammed in a proper cabinet saw in that space. I am considering learning to sharpen the turning tools (gauges and all) by hand or getting some with replaceable carbide tips.

What do you think would be the pros and cons?

Note that I already own a normal (not carbide) roughing gouge and 5 more turning doohickeys.

Thanks and keep up the good work.
Cheers from Bergen, Norway.

Huy

1) My Dewalt 735 planer is occasionally having issues feeding my lumber through. There will be times where it stops feeding and I try to assist it through by pushing a little or pulling from the outfeed side, although that doesn’t feel the safest. It may stop 4 or 5 times in the course of one board. It will likely leave the board with black lines across the width of the board and sometimes cause divots where the planer ate up more wood than it should have. I assume this is an issue with the rollers on the inside. I try to get rid of extra wood chips in there (I am using a DC too) and I’ve also tried mineral spirits on the rollers. Do you guys have any solutions? Matthew

2) Hey Guy, Huy, and Sean,
I recently picked up some used hand tools while on vacation on the northern coast of Maine. I picked up a 24” hand saw, a Stanley 78 rabbet plane, and a sharpening stone in a custom fit wooden box (not as nice as Sean’s sharpening station). The two sides of the sharpening some are labeled “fine” and “course”. How can I tell if they are oil stones or water stones, and if they are oil stones, what type of oil should I use? The stone looks to be mostly gray (that may just be residual steel) but might have a brown or reddish hue to them.
Additional question, if they are oil stones and I use water will that cause damage? Same question if they are water stones and I use oil. Thank you for the best Woodworking podcast.
Joshua

Guy

1) Hey Guys. Jig question for you: when do you decide on whether to keep a shop made jig or pitch it in the trash? I like saving jigs that I plan on using again but I’m starting to run out of wall space to hang them. Is there a category / type of jig that you’ll make over and over vs one where you’ll try to make it once to keep for years? Ben

2) Hi, thank you for the time you invest in this excellent podcast!

I have a question about drawers and would like to invite you to tackle this subject quite broadly:
what is  the type you usually install in fine furniture, in workshop furniture,…

Can you give tips on how to fit them correctly?

What is your favorite drawer construction method?

I’m asking this question in this way because in the past year I made and installed two different cabinets (including drawers). On these builds I used a gripless push-to-open type mechanism. I’m pleased with it altough it was a bit of work to get the fronts lining up correctly. Since this build I realised this sort of work can be rather tricky and now I would like to hear your take on it!

Thanks!
Bart

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Sean

1) How do you guys remove remove squeeze out on inside corners? Let’s assume that you forgot to do any prep work for squeeze out. Is the only option short repetitive tedious strokes with sandpaper and scrapers? It seems like any other  sanding options leave cross grain scratches. Blue bees woodworking

2)Hi guys – Watching YouTube videos I see more and more people using dust masks / breathing apparatus these days.
As an old guy ( I’m even older than Guy ) this equipment  was never available or even thought of many years ago, perhaps we would slip on some safety glasses and call it quits. I must confess a lot of my pottering around in the shed is done with just a pair of thongs ( I think maybe in the US you call them flip flops)
edit: I don’t want you guys thinking I’m wandering around my shed in a g-string ( thong / thongs), translations between countries varies . (I live in Australia)
Anyways these days I see people wearing breathing masks / filters/ respirators that start from a simple mouth covering such as a mask to outrageously looking respirators that look like something from a Star Wars movie set.
Do you guys use breathing protection ? If so, which type and your thoughts behind your choices
PS: I’m older than Guy and don’t own a SawStop, please answer as soon as you can as my time on earth is limited

Regards
Geoff

Guy

1)I have a question regarding cutting and joining 2x 45 degree angles. My question mostly applies to using hardwood, not plywood and thicker stock, like 6/4 and 8/4 for things like a waterfall style table or bench.

I have the FeStool tracksaw, which is what I’ve used to cut my 45s. I find that it’s pretty dialed in when I check the angle after the cut, but for some reason when I join the 2 45s it’s always a few degrees off from 90. For what it’s worth, I join the 45s w dominos. I’m just having difficulty getting a perfectly even/square joint.

Don’t really know if it’s a clamping or cutting issue to be honest.

Any suggestions on clamping or cutting that could Help w this issue?

(I’m not opposed to making a table saw sled just for when cutting 45s, but that’s not really an option for larger pieces) – Byran

2) Hey guys, thanks for answering my last question, I thought I’d return with another!

My question is about water based finishes and HVLP spraying. I’ve been looking at buying a Fuji sprayer but unsure if it’s suitable and also what stage to go for?

I have a small shop and feel HVLP is the way to go although I’ve been advised to go for an airless system instead

Mainly be spraying water based paint finishes, but again unsure if this is suitable with HVLP?

Also use a lot of Polyx osmo oil, is this suitable to be sprayed? -Mike

Huy

1)For this question. I have a 4ft by 4ft bench.  You guessed…. 2×4 frame screwed and glued to 4×4 legs with 1 sheet of 23/32 ply wood (cut in half hence the 4×4 ft top) screwed down.  I did not glue the top.  My thought was i can change/flip them if one sides gets beat up.

There is a slight crown in my bench top.  The center is a bit higher then the edges and the corners are lowest.  What are your suggestions on on flatting this out. 

It become a problem mostly hand planing as the corner is lower, and the work piece tips up. Thank you, Scott

2) Hello fellas, this is Garrett Roberson from HMR Custom Woodcraft.  I have a question about building a 36″ wide by 72″ long wall hanging that will go up behind a dart board.  The customer wants something to hang on the wall behind a dart board to protect the drywall behind it.  I would like to make it hang from the wall so that they can change or move it in the future instead of permanently attaching it to the wall.  My plan is to use a 1/4″ ply backing board, then make 6″ wide x 1/2″ thick panels out of walnut and lay it out in a herringbone pattern going 18″ to either side from center.  Finally I plan to trim out around it to cover the ply and give it a more finished look.  What would be the best way to attach the panel pieces to the backing ply?  Should I glue up each piece, laminating it to the plywood?  Use pin nails and no glue?  Both?  Would it be best to paint the ply behind it and leave a slight gap or can I push them right up next to each other?  I just want to make sure I don’t have any wood movement issues or things like that.  Any help you can give would be appreciated and keep up the great work.
Garrett

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Huy

1) Hey guys.  This is definitely more of a “beginner” question, but can you elaborate on how you determine what speed setting to use on your router?  Does it change depending on the hardness of the wood?  Or the type of grain you’re routing?  Or maybe the size or particular profile of the bit?  Whether you’re routing in a router table or freehand?  Plunging versus edge work?  I own the DeWalt (DW618PKB) plunge router with speed setting 1-6.  I always leave it on 6 and never think twice about it.  But I’m wondering if I could get better results (less tear out, less burning) if I pay more attention to the speed setting?  Thank you for all the interesting information every week.  Thank you!  Matt @WoodMillerDesigns

2) Hey everyone! Love the show. Have heard you talk about shellac for an initial coat or 2 of finish, then topped with something else such as a water or oil based poly. I know an only shellac finish can have clouding issues if someone leaves a drink on the surface, ie drink rings. I know shellac also could dissolve if an alcoholic beverage was spilled and not cleaned quickly. My question is:  would you still have these issues if you did 1-2 coats of shellac and then several top coats of water or oil based poly?  Or does the poly topcoat eliminate these shellac drawbacks? Ron

Sean

1) Hey there great podcasters! Just wanted to say after you kindly answered my question about grey streaky raindrop trails in my water-based poly finish (your suggestion was that I was using waxed shellac) that I did check what shellac I had used. Sure enough, it was waxed bullseye shellac! I had a can of the sealcoat de-waxed that I had finished and must have picked up the regular, waxed stuff by mistake. (I know, I know, I should mix up my own…) Thanks so much for your excellent deduction and help!

Not sure if you’re still in dire need of questions, but if you are, I have one you could use: are any of you making woodworked holiday presents this year? If so, what are you thinking? If not, what’s the best small, wood-based gifts you’ve made for people in the past?

2) Second, in a separate conversation, I said I sanded 80, 120, 180, 220. My boss sands 100, 120, 150, 220. (We both sand 320 after the first two layers of finish and 400 is any further sanding is needed.)  When he heard that I went from 120 to 180 he said “I don’t skip grits.” Which didn’t make sense to me because he “skips” 180. It made me think about all the advice on sanding I’ve heard. I always heard “proceed through the grits, don’t rush, don’t skip grits.” But rarely does anyone mention a specific grit besides where they stop (which can be anywhere from 220 to 400). So where do you start and what are all of the grits you use? Mike

Guy

1) Heyy-o! I am a new woodworker and in the process of trying to get my shop together so I can start making custom pieces.  I am also a new listener. My  biggest question that I have searched and searched for and cannot seem to find a satisfactory answer is: How do I decide what type(s) of wood I should use for a project? I know that there is hardwood and softwood, but which is which and how do I know which to use and when?? How do I know what types of wood are paint grade or stain grade, or just clear finish grade?  It seems like everyone just skips over this, and doesn’t really explain the differences. Your help on this would be awesome and super beneficial! Thanks, Daniel

2) Hey Guys, Looking for some direction on Slab style kitchen doors. I’ve got a small kitchen, walk in pantry and laundry room that needs some cabinets. My wife wants smooth style modern doors so they are easy to clean and wipe down.  And she wants them painted. I’ve made plenty of frame and panel doors but curious how you guys would tackle the construction of these. Is it just as easy as cutting up a sheet of MDF or Plywood laminating some edging and spraying them? Or would you make stave cores? Other details. These are full overlay doors, I think the tallest door might be 36” tall in the laundry room. But everything else is standard heights and widths for a kitchen. Thanks guys keep up the good work!! Jessee

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Sean

1) My question is a little out of the ordinary and is about the mental side of woodworking. I have a fast paced, high pressure job that requires a lot of my time. That being said it has allowed me the luxury of jumping into the hobby with both feet and get some really good tools right off the bat. Probably a bad idea what what the hell. Lol. The down side of the job is it limits my time in the shop and also makes it hard to transition into the mindset for woodworking. I have to multitask and move quickly at work, traits that don’t lend themselves well to the hobby. Do you guys ever have trouble slowing/calming down when you are in the shop?  And if so how do you combat this.Thanks, Brian Wilson.

2) I was surprised to hear Guy say he wasn’t a fan of parallel clamps (and instead preferred pipe clamps due to their clamping pressure). They seem to be standard issue for every woodworker I see.

Can I ask you all to share any other overrated (or underrated) woodworking tools? Danny

Huy

1) Hello, I have upgraded my table saw to a 3HP Powermatic 66 and was looking at building an outfeed table but seeing wood prices lately,  I am just going to use my old 1 1/2 HP contractor as the “outfeed” table with both saws pushed back to back making sure the miter slots don’t interfere with each other. I’m trying to decide on what blades to get for the 2 saws. I see the work you guys do, so I was wondering which blades you would keep installed. Both saws have router tables, so any dado would be done with a router bit. Thanks for all the great podcast, I have been listening since #1- keep up the great work! Travis

2) Hey guys, thanks for putting out such a great podcast! I have been binge listening to the older shows and have heard several discussions on dust collection. Most of them have been focused on connection a large  hose to a smaller dust port and not getting the full performance from this collection. I don’t have a dust collector, just a DeWalt shop vac. Would you saw that some dust collection is better than no dust collection at all? Working on getting a bandsaw that has a 4 inch port, used green (not the newer blue paint job) Rikon 10-315 12” deluxe, and dust collector would be the next purchase after that. Do you think it would be fine to at least use the shop vac to help, or is this a waste of time? Tim Preach

Guy

1) Hello guys and Guy.  Wondering if you could give any recommendations for a table saw blades.  I purchased the Forrest WW2 10″ 40T blade back in May, however it is on backorder until November.  Is there another blade you recommend that would be easier to find and use for the time being?  I’m currently running the SawStop PCS 3 hp and just have the standard SawStop blade that came with the saw. Thanks, Paul

2) Hi guys. For a walnut kitchen table, would you use conversion varnish or Arm-r-seal? I can spray if need be. – Ken