Category: Uncategorized

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Guys Questions

1) Can you speak a little in general about expansion and contraction of wood with some basic Do Not vs. Do when it comes to glueing and allowing wood movement?  Thanks in advance, I am learning a ton! April

2) Hey Guys, I’ve got a question for the podcast that I’ve never heard anyone address. Is it worth it to invest in high-dollar drill bits? 

As a hobbiest on a tight budget, I generally get new bits at the box store, but sometimes I can look at them while they are spinning, and tell that they are not spinning straight. They seem to do the job, but I always wondered if having better bits (or possibly a better drill, I guess) is worth the money?

Thanks, and love the great show format.

Sincerely,

Scott A.

Jackson, TN

Sean’s Questions

1) Hello, I would like your opinion what would be the better upgrade option around the 300-400 dollar range. I currently have a 60’s era Delta 6″ jointer with a 1.5HP motor and am debating on whether I should upgrade to a carbide helical cutter head or should I upgrade my capacity with a used 8″ jointer which I can usually find around here for about a hundred more. Thanks for the podcast, it’s going great! – Travis

2) Love your podcast. Your show is amazing and I love all three of your social stuff. Guy, your YouTube page is amazingly helpful for me. I’m a hobbiest woodworker who sells pieces based upon commission only. I’ve been building out my shop via commissioned projects over the past 4 years. I started with all HD Ryobi stationary tools to learn on and now am upgrading to more professional tools. Here’s what I have so far: Laguna F2 hybrid table saw, just got it and love it, it took some mods for dust collection but it’s awesome. Wen drill press. Craftsman used lathe(got it for $100 from a neighbor) basically brand new. Rigid miter saw station. Porter and cable router on a homemade table. Dust collection system with a shop vac and dust deputy. 10 inch wen band saw. My question is what do I get next? Drum sander? Or planer/jointer combo? My budget is around $1200 and space is an issue. I work in a 1 car garage. I do have everything on wheels except the table saw. Hope I didn’t ramble. Keep up the great work. Brad 

Huy’s Questions

1) What glue do you use for veneering? Are there any circumstances when you would change the glue your using, such as curved panels, color of veneer, or purchased vs shop sawn veneer?
Douglas

2) I don’t think I have heard y’all talk about these before so here you go. Woodpecker tools. What do y’all think of them?  Are there better or cheaper tools out there that will work as good? I have a few Woodpecker tools and I really like them and find them very useful but just looking for other options out there. I also have bought a few of their one time tools and have been very pleased with them. Keep up the great work guys! – Troy

Thanks to Maverick Abrasives for sponsoring this episode!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions

1) I’m having trouble getting clean 45 degree angles (or any angle other than 90) on my table saw. I use an Incra Miter 1000. It seems like my workpiece shifts ever so slightly as the wood enters the blade and my miter isn’t clean. I don’t have confidence in the miter stop provided with the miter gauge cause it’s just a small round piece of metal. Any tips on cutting angles with this style miter gauge would be awesome. Also, do you recommend using it on the left or right miter slot of a left tilting blade. Much appreciated.  Keep up the good work. -Zach

2) I just got my first Lie-Nielsen plane (#4 bronze body smoother).  I’ve decided it’s time to up my sharpening game and purchase some quality stones to sharpen plane irons and chisels.  I had pretty much decided on Shapton Waterstones when I ran across their glass stones. The glass stones now seem to be the way to go but I’d like to have your guys take on glass vs. water stones before I pull the trigger. Love the show guys!  Thanks and Merry Christmas! – Jeff

Sean’s Questions

1) Hello guys, big fan of the podcast, I’ve listened to all your episodes and look forward to each one. I enjoy the Q&A format.

My question is about a workbench I want to build, more specifically the top. I have no formal workbench right now so I’m looking to build my first. I was initially looking to source some butcher block top and use that but last year I acquired a full 4×8 sheet of 1-1/4″ MDF leftover from a jobsite. I had to rip it down and cut it down to make it manageable enough to get it in my car so I have 2 5’x2′ pieces of 1-1/4″ MDF.

I was planning on laminating these 2 pieces together to get a 5′ X 2′ X 2-1/2″ thick benchtop. I’m wondering what if any issues I may encounter and any tips for gluing up, attaching a vise, etc. I was going to drill dog holes but I recently saw a video from Dave Piccuito at https://youtu.be/DYIwSm2wnAA where he puts in a t-track. I really like how his turned out and was thinking about doing that.

So I was just hoping to get some insight into anything I may want to look out for or be aware of. Pros/cons/thoughts. Thanks for everything you do guys, take care. – Michael

2) On a recent episode, you talked about using your CNC’s to cut out jigs, etc.  I’m interested in getting a CNC to complement my woodworking, which is a fairly new hobby for me since I retired a couple of years ago.  My only real interest is in using it to make jig parts and router templates for things like furniture legs – not interested in creating final products or 3D sculptures with the CNC, nor doing production for products to sale.  What are your recommendations (size, features, manufacturers) for a setup that would see light duty limited to this application? I’ve tried some of the online laser-cutting services – but they can get pricey pretty quick and have limited thicknesses, so I’m interested in my own setup.  Price is a big consideration – as I can’t see spending 5 grand for such a limited application. Thanks, Scott

Huy’s Questions

1) I started woodworking last year, and I’ve only been using jatoba, African mahogany, hickory, and hard maple. Mostly because I got good deals on Craigslist. Based on what I’ve heard you guys discussing, those might not be the easiest woods to work with.

My next project is to make a bed for my 4 year old son. What species would make my life easier? I’m in Denver, so cherry isn’t all that cheap. Also, any tips on making beds? -aaron

2) I have a commission for a 6’ round 12/4 (poplar but it doesn’t matter) dining table. I’ll fabricate the steel base, but how would you move such a massive piece around the shop? And any recommendations on the glue up? Guy, how do you move your large pieces at the new shop? Thanks gentlemen! Will

Thanks to Maverick Abrasives for sponsoring this episode!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guy

1) I have a makita trim router with a ¼” up cut spiral bit routing a groove in the edge of a board and the collet keeps loosening the bit. I’m only taking ⅛” deep passes. Not sure what the problem is. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Douglas.

2) Love the show. My hobbiest shop is a 24×30 garage and I’m looking to upgrade the dust collection. I initially looked at a big 3HP dust collector and plumbing the whole shop with 4” and 6” ducting.

Now I’m looking at getting 2-3  Grizzly G0785 Or Rockler wall mount units and keeping each near 1-2 machines and not running expensive and cumbersome duct work all over my shop. It seems like for about $1200 I could have a pretty effective setup by going this way instead of 1 big dust collector.

Am I missing something?  Do you see any disadvantages of going with multiple smaller units mounted close to my machines? – Ron

Sean

1) Hey guys I’ve got a workbench vise question. I’m in the process of building a new workbench and am ready to mount a front vise.

I have an old record style vise that I was going to use and mount to the apron leaving it proud. However everyone I see now mounts there vise inset using the bench apron as the rear jaws of the vise. Granted these are all quick release Lee Valley style vises.

Would you mount the vise proud or inset the vise? I found some info from Paul Sellers in favor of mounting a vise proud to avoid pinching fingers. But haven’t found any info on people using vises that are flush to the apron of the bench.

Btw this isn’t my end all be all beautiful shaker/rubo bench. It will probably last 5-7 years before I replace it.

Thanks

Jesse

Beechland Furniture –

2) I am a very green woodworker. I am building a small side/end table. I’ll attach the top to the aprons and allow for wood movement. I want to add a shelf at about a third of the length from the top to the floor. I thought about attaching it to the legs. How would you guys do it?

Thanks for the great podcast. – Omer

Huy

1) Thank you all for devoting such time to this podcast. I am a new woodworker and I am learning so much in every episode.

I am writing with a question about jointing and spring joints. I refurbished an old Atlas 6000 6 inch jointer. It’s a beast and I think I did a pretty good job getting everything aligned — very sharp new blades at the right height. But when I edge-joint longer boards (60″ — the outfeed table of the jointer is only about 26″), I do get a very small, wide arch (crook or frown face) on the jointed edge. When I put two jointed boards edge to edge to make a panel, there is a small (1/32-1/16″) gap in the center, but the ends of the board are flush. I lamented this to a fellow woodworker and he told me not to worry — that it’s a best practice to make a “spring joint’ by leaving such a gap and closing it up via clamps during a glue-up. So my question is: is my friend right — should I just go with a spring joint? And if he’s not right, how can I calibrate my jointer so I get a straighter edge? – Adam Potthast

2) I’m going to be building a run of side chairs in the near future, and am in the design phase. My question is about the necessity of lower stretchers for durability. I’d like these chairs to last for decades (at least), and my kids/nephews are maniacs. Do lower stretchers on a side chair add measurable strength, or are the mortise/tenon joints for the seat aprons sufficient on their own? I love your podcast. Thanks very much. – Andrew

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Guy:

1) Hi Guys, been thinking a lot lately on getting into woodworkering. I follow several instagram and YouTube channels but just wanted to get some input on what i need to get started and what are some really nice projects for a complete beginner to start off with. -acam22

2) Gentleman, thank you for answering my question in Episode 7. Ive got a new question for you. Blade Cleaning versus Blade Sharpening. We all know it’s a good practice the clean blades regularly and personally I go with some warm water and simple green, it’s worked great for me. My question is, what are the signs I should look for when I’m beyond this simple solution and it’s time to get my blades sharpened. Thanks and keep up the good work! -Hubble_workshop

Sean:

1) How do you like the jet combo jointer/thickness planer? I’m space limited and thinking of replacing a 6” ridgid jointer and 10” inca combo machine. I’d like to have a larger jointer and was wondering how you like the combination machine. Did you consider other similar models? 

Thanks – Adam

2) I recently acquired 120 bf of ash and thought it would be perfect to make a new office desk. I was thinking of making a metal base with ash top and ash cabinets underneath. There would be a single cabinet box on either side. I was thinking of making the cabinet box out of solid ash. Is this a good idea? Any concerns or should I still to plywood? The reason for ash would be to keep consistent wood/grain/color throughout. And the fact I have a lot of it. If solid wood is ok, any recommendations on box construction? Thanks! – crwoodshop

Huy:

1) Is there a distinct advantage to a cast iron router surface over a laminate one? The price difference seems negligible between the two.

1. Is there anything that we should consider specifically when getting a router table wing/insert with regards to fence and dust collection? For example, Saw Stop looks like it uses a proprietary fence that doesn’t have dust collection at the fence. We’re trying to “future-proof” our shop as best we can, so we don’t want to be limited by being stuck to a single solution with regards to fences. Our plan is to put a JessEm Mast-R Lift II in whatever wing we get with the Porter Cable 7518.

Thanks for the awesome podcast. By far my favorite wood working podcast and something we look forward to every time we see a new episode release. Keep up the good work!

Chris and Lydia

2) I’m planning on building a few cedar shutters. I want to maintain the original wood color as much as possible and prevent the cedar from graying over time. What finish would you recommend that would both protect the wood from rain/sunlight and also prevent the wood from graying too quickly?

Thanks! – Josh

Thanks to the sponsor of this episode, Maverick Abrasives

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Questions

Guys

1) I would like to have a better understanding of what is safe and what isn’t when cross cutting on the table saw.

I have seen lots of videos and read lots of articles that mention how dangerous cross cutting on the table saw can be when the aspect ratio of the work is such that the distance between the blade and the fence exceeds the length of the edge that is against the fence. This makes perfect sense to me as you want to avoid the possibility of the work twisting between the blade and fence and kicking back.

However, there are countless videos of supposedly knowledgeable woodworkers breaking down sheet goods and violating this aspect ratio rule. Do these rules not really apply when breaking down sheet goods for some reason?

2) Hello, I just picked up a Incra Ls positioner fence at a yard sale for $20, (they didn’t know what it was). My question is when do you choose to use the Incra verses using your dovetail jig? I don’t currently have a dovetail jig, are there some situations where a dovetail jig would be better? Any general discussion on the Incra would be great. Thanks, keep up the good work, the podcast has been excellent! – Travis

Seans

1) This is a router operation question. I was recently making a new jig for a project that required that I cut a long slot all the way through a piece that would allow a bolt to slide along that piece. (The piece is 16 by 2 and is about 5/4 thick. I was cutting a 1/4 slot that ran in the middle of the piece for about 15 inches. It would allow bolts to pass through the piece and then it could slide along the bolts so that it’s position can be adjusted. Hope that makes sense)
I was using a 1/4 inch straight cutting bit in a router and making the cut in multiple passes. I had the cutting speed set relatively high (somewhere around 20,000 – 24,000 RPM) and was going about an 1/8 deep per pass. I was using a cheap bit so I was running in shallower passes than I would have thought necessary knowing that the performance of the bit is probably going to be lacking. Despite my best efforts the bit snapped off…Luckily it stayed in the groove I was cutting and did not become a projectile and there was no damage to the tool or the piece.
The situation raised a few questions for me:
1. How deep would you plunge that size a bit and expect it to cut without any safety or performance concerns? (my piece was laminated baltic birch ply if the material makes a difference. Bit was a 1/4 inch, 1/4 shank straight cutting bit.)
2. Is there something I should be doing in this type of situation to prevent this outcome? I had inserted the bit fully into the collet, I had set it to what I thought was an appropriate speed for it’s size and I went shallow with my cuts not to stress it too much. Did I do the right things there? Other than getting a better bit, what would you do differently?

2) Hi Guys,
My question is about Joiner fences. I picked up an old 6″ Delta Shop Master a few years that was in great condition, except that the fence on the outfeed side is welded to the table. I’ve never had the need to change the fence’s angle (it’s welded and calibrated to 90°) but I could see adjusting it’s depth to reduce wear on my straight blades.
Do you guys find your self moving the fence often, or at all and if so, why?
Thanks for sharing your expertise and furthering our craft! Justin

Huys

1) Ahoy fellas. Absolutely love the podcast, been listening for a long time… BUT first time question for you.

Router Slab jigs. I’m getting ready to do an epoxy table and have seen plenty of “how to” videos on building your own on the Tube of You. But none of them explain how to set them up. What exactly needs to be parallel? Do I need a perfectly flat surface to set my piece on or no? I’m guessing as long as I shim my workpiece, I’ll be fine. But then do I also have to make sure the piece is roughly on the same plane as the rails?

Overall my main worry is getting finished and I have one side of my table thinner than the other.

What am I missing?

Appreciate it! Keep up the GREAT work. Paul

2) Gonna keep this one simple. What is your favorite style of furniture to you enjoy building? Second part, what is your favorite period of furniture if it differs from what you enjoy building?

Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on!

Thanks,
Brent Jarvis
Clean Cut Woodworking

Social Media Mentions

Sean: @christopherscottfurniture

Huy: @danielfurnituremaker

Guy: @Karlholm.design