Category: Uncategorized

Brians Questions:

I inherited my dad’s woodworking tools almost 20 years ago. I’ve upgraded several tools over the years. Most significantly, I replaced his Craftsman contractor table saw with a Sawstop PCS 175 5 years ago. I bought it for the safety mechanism, but I’ve really enjoyed using a cabinet saw. While I consistently use the riving knife, I have seldom used the blade guard cover. I like being able to clearly see the blade meeting the wood. Question/topic: how do you balance safety and convenience in your woodshop? Thank you. Chuck

I inherited my dad’s woodworking tools almost 20 years ago. I’ve upgraded several tools over the years. Most significantly, I replaced his Craftsman contractor table saw with a Sawstop PCS 175 5 years ago. I bought it for the safety mechanism, but I’ve really enjoyed using a cabinet saw. While I consistently use the riving knife, I have seldom used the blade guard cover. I like being able to clearly see the blade meeting the wood. Question/topic: how do you balance safety and convenience in your woodshop? Thank you. Chuck

Guys Questions:

Hey Gentleman (and Guy), Thanks for the great podcast. I’m lucky enough to be able to pester Guy directly with my questions, and he’s gracious enough to answer them. Do you have any “Dream Projects”? Something that you have always wanted to build, but just haven’t had the time or resources to do it? Think you will ever get to it? Thanks again for sharing all your knowledge, look forward to hearing your answers -Theo

I’ve heard at least one of you maybe Guy in the beginning say there were quite a few years that went by without a table saw in the shop. I very recently took a big step and got a rikon 14″ deluxe band saw as well as the Makita track saw. My table saw is a deplorable early 90’s job site Makita. really bad fence zero dust collection tiny arbor. It works but guy has maybe once compared a Cadillac vs a pinto and I own the table saw pinto that got into a wreck and then blew up and Given my two recent big purchases what would you say my big limitations are by not having a serious table saw? Can I get by wanting to make boxes? Can I get by without another big purchase such as a table saw? What do you guys see as limitations given my recent purchases? Jim

Huys Questions:

Hey all, another question. I’m wanting to get into spraying finish, I’ve seen the option and have heard decent things about the harbor frieght paint sprayer with regulator which is like 30$. I’m wondering what you guys think of it or if any of you have experiences with it? I have a 30 gal air compressor and I’m only looking at small pieces up to a night stand size, so I think that should suffice? I would love to get a 4 stage but that is very much out of the question price wise. Also I’m looking to mostly spray Shelac and conversion varnish. How easy is it to clean? Guy makes it sound extremely easy so I’m curious if Guy or Hue have any videos about cleaning? Sorry I know it’s long winded but thank you guys for what you do! Look forward to hearing the answers. Blairswoodshop

I have a question about “refinishing” a shelf. I built a floating shelf out of walnut about 2 years ago and did miter-folded edges all the way around. It’s a small shelf, only 32″ long, 3″ tall face, and 6″ deep. My wife would like the same size shelf in white oak. Could i sand back the finish and veneer it in white oak? Or do I need to start from scratch and build a new shelf? Brian

Brians Questions:

Does a combination square needs to be a Starrett ($$$$) or we clan go with cheaper brands. Kind regards from São Paulo – Brazil.

Hey guys, quick question for you. I have an old grizzly 20″ planer and I want to resaw some wood on my bandsaw down to 1/2″ and 1/4″ pieces. The bandsaw is from 1943 and doesn’t leave the best finish. The minimum thickness on the planer is 1/2″ but I see the piece do some shimmying when I put stock that thin through there. What’s the best way to finish planing the stock and finishing it off without access to a drum sander? Any tips would be much appreciated. Love the show and keep up the good work! JARED

Guy’s Questions:

Hey guys. I have been wanting to ask this for a while now. I have been asked by my wife to build dresser for our bedroom. This would be my first time building drawers. I have the cabinet built and the drawer boxes built. But when I put the slides on the drawers just don’t glide like I would think they would. I mean some of them do. I am just not sure what I am doing wrong. I have checked all my spacing for the openings. Could it be my boxes are not square? What is the best way to get them square? Nick.

I’ve been listening for a few years now, and have learned a lot. My most pressing question is about finishing. Recently l’ve built a couple kitchen tables that I really wanted to be special and put a lot of time into them. I thought everything turned out great, but at the final step, topcoating, I got a lot of streaking – more so than I’ve gotten before (although this is a bigger surface area project than I’ve ever done). I stained it, then used AquaCoat water-based grain filler (which left a few minor streaks across the grain that I couldn’t sand out, but I can live with that), and then 3 coats of ArmRSeal satin. After the 3rd coat I had a dull sheen in one spot and so gave it a 4th coat of satin, pretty thick this time, and the sheen streaking got worse. Am assuming that I need to sand it down (and hopefully not get down into the stain) and start again. Someone suggested gloss or semi-gloss ArmRSeal and then a final coat with satin. Is there an easier solution – buff it out?? Mark Schmidt

Huy’s Questions: 

Hello gentlemen. I stumbled across your podcast a few months ago and have been enjoying it ever since. I apologize I have not spent a lot of time going back through older episodes, so this question may have come up already. I’ve been woodworking as a hobby for several years now and enjoy it as my creative outlet. I prefer making smaller pieces as opposed to big furniture but have dabbled with both as gifts and favors to friends. In 2023 I’d like to start turning this into a small business. I enjoy my day job, so this would be more of a side hustle to make enough money to buy more wood and tools (and maybe whiskey 😉). Do you have any tips or tricks for getting started selling projects? Facebook marketplace seems like a dead zone and Etsy seems saturated. Thanks, and I appreciate any advice you have on this subject. Nick Hellman

I am slowly trying to turn my tiny shed into a shop. It is coming along but is not climate controlled. I was recently glueing up some thin strips of wood for an accent on a holiday gift. I live in Oregon, about an hour east of Portland. It doesn’t get super cold here usually, but that week was a bit colder than usual. Anyway, when I went to trim up the strips they came apart where they were glued up. The glue didn’t bond at all. There was just white remnants of dry glue. After asking a friend who is a professional woodworker and reading the label I learned that you can’t use wood glue below 46°. The bottle says not to let it freeze. My friend told me once the bottle freezes it is not good anymore. I bought a new bottle and am keeping it inside the house and doing glue ups inside until the spring. Is this true that once the bottle freezes it’s no good? Any advice for working in the winter in an unheated shop? Should I worry about the wood moving when I bring it inside? Any other products I should worry about in cold temps? Thanks. Happy New Year! Jon Moch

Guy’s Questions:

Good afternoon Gentlemen, Thank you for your podcast, I really appreciate it, and you fellows. Long story short, I am a re-engaging woodworker after taking a 20 year hiatus. Due to life requirements and work travel frequency, I was unable to keep up my hobby. I now have the time (and hopefully will NEVER have to fly somewhere for work again) to start anew. Things have changed quite a bit in past couple decades, and so have my interests in terms of wood working. Over my hiatus, I sold some of my equipment in hopes the machines would be used instead of sitting idle and it is time to re-equip my shop needs with eliminated tools and new needs. My tool requirements are also much different today, then they were 20 years ago. One requirement I now have is a drum sander. I don’t have the desire to rotate any work (key point), and want to acquire a machine that fits my specific needs, thus an 18″ capability is perfect for what my new woodworking interests require. I also refuse to take any advice from boob tube woodworkers recommendations, as it seems that 90% of the creators I find may have started out providing woodworking content, but they mostly all just become prejudiced tool reviewers who conflict each other based on who is giving them free tools or paying them. I have lost a lot of respect for some woodworkers on YouTube who used to be considered by me as inspirations in their early YouTube careers, no longer. With that said, I have trimmed my interest list down to a Jet 1836 and Supermax 19-38. I imagine some or all of you have had experience with both, and would like your feedback. I am not currently considering models with moving/height adjustable belts such as the shop fox/grizzly, however if you have anything to add on those, it would be nice to hear. Glad you have a new host, it seems like he may be a great fit for the podcast. Well wishes to all of you, and Guy, I hope your health is well.

Kurtis Van Kampen

You fellas have filled my head with hours and hours of information. You’re truly the best Podcast I’ve found. So before Guy’s head begins to swell, on with the question. I’ve started watching Nee Yankee workshop again now they I actually have a 520 sqft shop to work out in. In the first season Norm used what he called a panel cutting jig for the table saw. The fence of the jig was located on the blade side rather than the operator side like the modern crosscut sled. This jig is dead simple being made of only three boards. I had big plans to make a modern crosscut sled (not the aircraft carrier) with all the bells and whistles. Now I’m completely rethinking my next table saw jig. Since Guy (like myself) is the only one of you old enough to remember the first episode, this should probably be HIS question. Keep up the great work fellows. I appreciate what each of you bring to the table. -Bryan

Huy’s Questions:

I’d first like to say that I listen to a bunch of other woodworking podcasts as well, but of all of them, yours has the lowest level of useless off-topic banter. Keep up the good work. I have a question about the usage of my shop air cleaner. It’s a Jet AFS-1000B, and my ceiling is only 7’6”, so can’t hang it from there. So I have it on a roll-around cart. My shop is 13’ x 17’. I don’t have a central dust collection system, but for the following tools I hook up my shop vac to the tool: table saw, planer, drum sander, router table and random orbit sander. I also have a circular saw, a handheld router, a jigsaw, a drill press, a belt sander and a palm sander. My question is, for which tools should I be turning on the air cleaner, and on which setting? (it has low, medium and high settings) And how long should I keep it on for after the tool has been turned off? Thanks.
Steve

My perception is that the people who seem to get hurt the most are woodworking professionals who become too comfortable/familiar with machines. Is that a fair assessment? [I am a hobbyist woodworker.] FYI, on 3 I am just asking for a comment on my observation. Have a great day Chuck

Brians Questions:

First, love the podcast and thank you! Question: I’m building a 28 foot table. I’m thinking that I will essentially build 4 table tops and connect them with ‘double breadboards’ with runners between the tressels (5). Thoughts? Back story: I am a veteran and I run a program that addresses PTSD, Substance Abuse and homelessness in the the veteran community. An essential component is that the veterans cook meals and eat together and as the program has grown, there is an assortment of tables in the house and I want too big a build one. I am an average woodworker and I can do the basics. It doesn’t have to be piece of art, just chunky and uniform. Also, there’s not a big endless budget so I am doing what I can. The vision: I fhave to build it in my garage and put it together on site. 28 feet long, 38 inches wide (the space dictates it). The only way I can work out the jointing is a double breadboard end that joins each section. I thought about end jointing with dowels alternating the lengths of the boards so there was no single joint across the length of the board which was quite the puzzle to figure out. 5 trestles essentially spaced under the middle breadboards with 2 runners supporting the table between legs and one runner connecting the legs 1/3 up from the bottom of the leg. Craig laseur

Hi Guys, I love your podcast. I have listened to every single episode! Please keep them coming! I was listening to Episode 114 about the domino tips and I am now thinking of completing my kitchen cabinet project using dominoes instead of pocket screws for the cabinet construction as I already own a domino. I was curious as to how Brian prefers to assemble cabinets. I have already watched Guy’s videos! 😉 Do you use the domino? How do you go about end panel construction? How do you finish your cabinets? Any tips you can provide is greatly appreciated! Thanks, Natasha Round Lake, Ontario, Canada

Brian’s Questions:

Hey Guys! Love the podcast. Long time listener, first time asking a question! I am looking for recommendations on how to remove saw marks after ripping pieces to final width on the table saw. I recently built a couple rocking chairs for my kiddos, and was looking for a super smooth surface finish on all four sides. My solution was to joint and plane the parts on 3 sides and then rip a 1/32 or so oversized. After that I set my jointer to 1/32 and ran the cut edge back over the jointer to remove the saw. This m I recently scored a router table on Facebook marketplace for $500. Woodpecker PRL 1 lift, Incra jig ultra fence, and Porter Cable 3.25 horse router. 1, what’s your favorite lubricant for threaded parts like router lifts and table saw arbor tilts? 2, Other than keeping them clear of dust so they don’t over heat is there any other maintenance to extend the life of a router? They don’t make the Porter Cable routers anymore so I want to keep it in top condition. – Tylerethod seems to work nicely. I am using a Jet cabinet saw and not matter how much I try to adjust it, I can never seem to get a rip without at least a few saw marks. Just looking for ways to improve my efficiency while in the shop! Thanks again Dylan.

Hey guys, You said you needed more questions so here ya go… I have a couple hundred bucks left over from my December birthday and Christmas haul that I plan to spend on woodworking supplies/tools. I keep a running wish list throughout the year of various woodworking things I “need” So there is no shortage of things I could spend it on, however I don’t want to waste it. That has encouraged me to just sit on it for now and I feel like I’m at a bit of a crossroads. Do I simply save it and put it towards a big more expensive tool down the road (for example I don’t currently have any kind of planer or joiner). Or do I use it to buy some of the less sexy but more useful day to day items that every shop should have (i.e. better bits, blades, consumables, jigs, etc…) For reference: At this point in my woodworking career I do mostly hobbyist/DIY level work. I have either budget or second hand versions of most basic hand and power tools and the basic bigger tools (Benchtop Drill Press, Contractor Saw, Miter Saw) I would love to delve in to the more serious side of woodworking one day, so I do have a goal of getting a planer and joiner down the road. But realistically I know if one fell down from the heavens in to my shop tomorrow it wouldn’t get used immediately. Regardless of my own personal decisions I thought it would be cool to get y’alls take on what you would consider the top small ticket items that every shop should have. I think we all get more excited about big expensive tools, because frankly it’s more fun, but for people like myself just getting started on this journey it can be easy to miss the basics as a result of that excitement. Thanks for being so awesome, Jon

Guy’s Questions:

Good day fellas, Been listening for a while, and really enjoy the podcast. Here is my problem/question. For Christmas this past year I made a few cutting boards as gifts using Maple, Walnut and a few pieces of Purple Heart. In my design process I managed to make one of the cutting boards slightly too big to fit (on first glue up) through my Dewalt DW735 planer. In order to save some time, I just ran the piece through the table saw to get the over width down to just under 13″. On the first pass through the planer, everything went as planned. The second pass through didnt go so great. At around ¾ of the way through, the planer dug into the piece and put some pretty nasty snipe into the piece. Id say around 4-5″ from the end of the board, and almost 1/8″ deep. What would cause that to happen? Narrower pieces that ive ran through after havent given me any snipe since. Is it due to me using the entire 13″ of the cutter head? Because of my snipe issue, im really hesitant on running anything wide through the planer now. I want to experiment using some cheaper wood, but just havent found the time to do so yet. Thanks for the help. – Dwayne

Hey guys, heard you are in need of some questions from the last show, so thought I would send one your way. What do you think is the best paint for furniture that will see use and abuse? I’ve been experimenting with some different options and haven’t found anything that I think I will stick with, and I do not want to put a clear coat over the paint. Looking for something very hard and durable, as the next time I need it will be for chairs. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Huy’s Questions:

When does something cross the line between being ‘handmade’ and ‘machine made’? My nephew had a CNC machine and advertised the products as ‘handmade.’ Is this all subjective anyways? Have a great day Chuck

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Brians Questions: 

Hi Friends: I really enjoy every podcast you guys put out. Thanks to Brain for stepping up to be the third host. He seems to be a natural with podcasting and teaching woodworking techniques. My question is related to tool choice. I am currently planning to build out a router table into the black phenolic extension table for my sawstop PCS 175. I have the 36inch cut capacity. I have seen videos on modifiying the extension table and dropping in a router lift. It seems like a great shop space saver. I have two questions for you guys. Do you think there is any value in having a stand alone router table? or is modifying the phenolic table a reasonable approach. I plan to build a custom fence to attach to the sawstop fence. My second question is – how important is it to buy a full size (3.25hp) router versus just getting a mid size router (2.25hp)? I currently have the milwaukee battery powered palm router (1.25hp) which has been useful but I want the accuracy and stability of a router table. The bulk of my work is edging and dados, but I would like the capacity to do raised panel cabinet doors and even to take my router out of the table and eventually build a flattening jig for large slabs. Is 2.25hp enough for these tasks? I am a hobbyist and don’t have any production needs for this setup but don’t want to be limited. Accuracy is important to me so I am going to go with a lift rather than buying a router with a base that can be screwed onto a table (like the triton). One issue is that a lift + router setup for a 2.25hp router is about $350 and for 3.25hp, I’m looking at $800+. Thaks in advance for your thoughts Sincerely, Jeremy Los Angeles, CA

ey guys I just wrote in and submitted a question but I do have another which I hope can be answered I’m building a kitchen table, 36×60” with a 1.5” top. The table is being made out of Rustic Rift Sawn White Oak Question is what is the best or a best method to ensure the top stays flat. This is in San Diego, Ca so weather/ humidity changes are the quite mild. I was thinking maple cleats across the bottom/ not glued but screwed allowing for movement. Any suggestions would be great Thanks and can’t wait for the next episode Nicholas

Guy’s Questions:

1. What are the best responses to people who want you to make them something (usually for little or nothing)? [Most people are clueless regarding the effort and expense it takes to make something nice.] Have a great day Chuck

Hello all, the WoodMech here, I just purchased a ts55 festool tracksaw with the 55” guide rail for my kitchen remodeling project. I was wondering how accurate joining two tracks together compared to having the longer track? I was thinking about getting the guide rail with the shelf pin spacing holes and using that as the extension for cutting length wise on sheets of plywood. What are your thoughts or experiences? Thanks for the great show! Jeff Baran

Huy’s Questions:

Gentlemen and Guy 🙂 Have been listening for about a year and this is still the best woodworking podcast out there. I’d also like to thanks Sean for his contributions and welcome Brian to the show! My question is, there are so many woodworking content makers out there today. Who are the woodworkers that you guys follow ?? Second question… Assume you have become retired and now have lots of time on your hands. What woodworking projects would you work on? Would you go into production work and sell your goods, custom furniture??? What would be your ultimate retired woodworking project??? Thanks ! Liam Indianapolis, IN

So I’m having trouble with bubbles. Both when I’m using epoxy and fast drying/instant glue (Starbond) any advice on how to avoid them? I’m not doing large pours, this is simply some gap filling and knot hole stabilization. With the Starbond I do use their accelerator, but I’ve done it with and without, and it doesn’t seem to make a difference w/r/t the bubbles. Also, how do you get the glue/epoxy down into a pin hole? Mark Bett