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Guy
1) I have a makita trim router with a ¼” up cut spiral bit routing a groove in the edge of a board and the collet keeps loosening the bit. I’m only taking ⅛” deep passes. Not sure what the problem is. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Douglas.
2) Love the show. My hobbiest shop is a 24×30 garage and I’m looking to upgrade the dust collection. I initially looked at a big 3HP dust collector and plumbing the whole shop with 4” and 6” ducting.
Now I’m looking at getting 2-3 Grizzly G0785 Or Rockler wall mount units and keeping each near 1-2 machines and not running expensive and cumbersome duct work all over my shop. It seems like for about $1200 I could have a pretty effective setup by going this way instead of 1 big dust collector.
Am I missing something? Do you see any disadvantages of going with multiple smaller units mounted close to my machines? – Ron
Sean
1) Hey guys I’ve got a workbench vise question. I’m in the process of building a new workbench and am ready to mount a front vise.
I have an old record style vise that I was going to use and mount to the apron leaving it proud. However everyone I see now mounts there vise inset using the bench apron as the rear jaws of the vise. Granted these are all quick release Lee Valley style vises.
Would you mount the vise proud or inset the vise? I found some info from Paul Sellers in favor of mounting a vise proud to avoid pinching fingers. But haven’t found any info on people using vises that are flush to the apron of the bench.
Btw this isn’t my end all be all beautiful shaker/rubo bench. It will probably last 5-7 years before I replace it.
Thanks
Jesse
Beechland Furniture –
2) I am a very green woodworker. I am building a small side/end table. I’ll attach the top to the aprons and allow for wood movement. I want to add a shelf at about a third of the length from the top to the floor. I thought about attaching it to the legs. How would you guys do it?
Thanks for the great podcast. – Omer
Huy
1) Thank you all for devoting such time to this podcast. I am a new woodworker and I am learning so much in every episode.
I am writing with a question about jointing and spring joints. I refurbished an old Atlas 6000 6 inch jointer. It’s a beast and I think I did a pretty good job getting everything aligned — very sharp new blades at the right height. But when I edge-joint longer boards (60″ — the outfeed table of the jointer is only about 26″), I do get a very small, wide arch (crook or frown face) on the jointed edge. When I put two jointed boards edge to edge to make a panel, there is a small (1/32-1/16″) gap in the center, but the ends of the board are flush. I lamented this to a fellow woodworker and he told me not to worry — that it’s a best practice to make a “spring joint’ by leaving such a gap and closing it up via clamps during a glue-up. So my question is: is my friend right — should I just go with a spring joint? And if he’s not right, how can I calibrate my jointer so I get a straighter edge? – Adam Potthast
2) I’m going to be building a run of side chairs in the near future, and am in the design phase. My question is about the necessity of lower stretchers for durability. I’d like these chairs to last for decades (at least), and my kids/nephews are maniacs. Do lower stretchers on a side chair add measurable strength, or are the mortise/tenon joints for the seat aprons sufficient on their own? I love your podcast. Thanks very much. – Andrew
