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Sean
1) What method do you guys use for waterfall joints (besides domino) and are biscuits and glue strong enough? Nick
2) I picked up 4 slabs of white oak that measure about 10 ft by 15” wide and 2 1/4” thick. I set up a router sled leveled everything on saw horses and as it turns out a couple of the slabs have a twist of about an 1”. Or a bow of about an 1” at either end. I wanted to keep the slabs as thick as possible and I don’t think a 1” top would look right. I ripped one down to about 12” to try to reduce the twist and route off a small amount but it still has a fair amount of twist and would require a lot of material to be removed.
How would you handle these slabs? Flatten one side with the router sled and leave the bottom slightly out to keep the thickness. Rip them down to smaller widths that I could handle on my 6” jointer, in hopes to keep the thickness at 1.5”. BTW this will be a PITA but could be done with roller stands/roller conveyers. Screw it and leave the twist/bow smooth out what I can with a power planer and go with it. I don’t have access to a large shop with a belt sander.
Thanks
Jesse
Guy
1) Hi guys! Been listening since the beginning and love the show, but I’m still a beginner and recently got a bandsaw (Rikon 10-326, brand new 3/4” Timberwolf resaw blade) which I’m trying to use for resawing. A friend gave me a bunch of purpleheart to resaw for him, and … it didn’t go well. So my questions:
- Do you prefer to resaw using a “point fence” or just the bandsaw’s normal fence? The normal fence gave me an awful lot of drift with the purpleheart.
- Is it better to keep the piece you’re resawing off (the piece with the thickness you want) next to the fence or on the side of the blade without the fence? The former seems preferable for repeatable cuts, but it seems like you quickly lose a reference surface on the third cut?
- Is it possible that I had so much trouble because I was resawing a hard wood like purpleheart and dulled my blade really quickly? Or is resawing a lot more fussy than you all make it look on YouTube? 🙂
Thank you, and for what it’s worth, I’ve followed the Snodgrass advice on setting up the guides and I’m pretty sure I got that right. – Adam
2) Guy, as I’ve improved as a woodworker, I’m getting more requests for building custom furniture, or recreating a design someone has seen online. This means I need to get serious about cost. You guys have discussed cost of various projects in a previous episode, which was helpful, but still vague enough to leave me scratching my head at times. I recognize that you don’t want to tell the podcast how much you might make on a project—I get it. So, I’m going to list a project here (not one I’m currently making), hoping to hear you think through materials, time, etc. As a professional, what would you charge for this piece? What should an amateur charge for this piece?:
– Project: Round breakfast table
– Wood: solid cherry
– Size: 42″ diameter, 1″ thickness
– Base: something like what Andy Rawls made here, just not as beefy: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bg9tf4_jyRr/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
– Joinery for the base would utilize the Festool Domino
– I live in SE Texas, and rough cherry is around $5 bd. Ft.
Josh
Huy
1) Hey guys…I am making a Morris chair out of cherry. Being a novice woodworker, this is my first substantial project. I’m having problems with snipe with my delta 22-555 13″ planer. I keep adjusting the infeed and outfeed tables , but still getting the darn snipe. Any suggestions? Also, how much thicker should pieces of wood be, to obtain a desired thickness?
https://woodgears.ca/jointer/planer_snipe.html
Also, the arms of the chair are a gentle bent lamination. I built a bending form and
wondering if you can go through the process, from resawing (what thickness), to assembly, clamping, what glue you use, etc. Final thickness of the arm is inch and an eighth thick.
Keep up the good work.
Dale from Muskego, Wi.
