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Sean
1) Shop router table or store bought. Pros and cons -trszki
2) Hi guys, I’m curious as to whether you guys use metric or imperial. I’m thinking it makes sense to switch to using metric for fine woodworking. I’m curious your take, what you are using and if you are using metric how was the switch and what are your pointers on making the switch. Thanks and I love the podcast.
Trent
Huy
1) I’m planning on replacing my melamine kitchen cabinet doors/drawer fronts with Shaker style I make. I’ll be using Whiteside’s Shaker Rail and Stile set in a router table and the doors/drawers will be painted.
I would like your opinion on material. I was thinking poplar for the rails and stiles and MDF for the panels.
Also, do you have a preference on type of hinges and brand? My current plan is to use European style, using jigs for drilling and mounting. I’ve never used European hinges, so any tips would be greatly appreciated if you agree this is the way to go.
2) Good morning fella’s. I have a question about timing a unique finishing option when assembling an outdoor closet (used for storing shovels, rakes, etc.). I’m making the closet out of white oak and it will be hanging off of the back of my brick outdoor fireplace. Lately the internet cannot decide what to call the finish I want to use, so I’m just going to say that I want to do a burned/charred wood finish. The question is, when to do it. I want to do traditional mortise and tenon assembly where the bottom is mortised into the sides and the sides into the top. Do I burn all the wood first then cut the joinery? Do joinery first then burn while avoiding the joinery locations? Or assemble the whole thing and burn as one piece? Any help would be appreciated and keep up the great work.
Garrett
Guy
1)Hi there, I’ve written in before and appreciate you answering my questions.
I have another question that I would love some guidance on. I was wondering if your had any tips on cleaning up glue squeeze out on inside corners. The majority of my work I’m using titebond 2 glue. Ive tried letting the glue gum up and scrape it, and also tried wiping it right away w a wet cloth.
The orbital sander doesn’t full clean out the inside corners, and sanding the corners by hand and the rest of the piece w an orbital sander tends to show a subtle difference in how those areas take the finish. Any tips would be a huge help. Thanks again, Bryan
2) Thanks for the best woodworking podcast on the web! I know it’s best to joint and turn “downhill” in regards to grain direction. How does one tell which end of a board was closest to the top or bottom of the tree ?
Thanks again,
Tim in North Carolina
