Woodshop Life Podcast

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Guy

1) I’ve been building small furniture projects (Shaker tables, end tables, walnut table, lounge chairs) in my hobby shop using a skill saw or a hand saw when a bandsaw has been called for. My furniture projects are getting more complicated (a dresser, more lounge chairs) and I’m thinking it is time to get a bandsaw. But which one? I don’t see me doing much resawing, although I don’t want to completely foreclose that possibility. I’ve thought about the following options: Jet 14 inch deluxe pro (1.25 hp, $1000), Grizzly GO555LX 14 inch (1 hp, $750), and Rikon table top deluxe 10 inch (0.5 hp, $440). I note that Lowe’s also has a Porter Cable 13 inch and a Delta 13 inch, but at their price point I think I’d be better off with the Grizzly. What are your thoughts? Many thanks. …Tom

2) Hey fellas, big fan of the show. Really enjoy the “specificity” you bring to the craft. Question: you guys talk about not trusting your mitre saws for accurate cross cuts (kapex excluded). So I assume your trusted method is with a table saw. How do you manage getting accurate cuts on large pieces. I know trying to shave a 1/8” off of the end of a 8ft x 6 x 4/4 piece of lumber is not easily done with a mitre jig or a sled on a table saw. How do you get that perfect 90 on something other than a mitre saw on large and long stock? P.S. I don’t trust my mitre saw either. -Zach

Sean

1) I really enjoy the podcast and I always learn a lot listening to your show. My question is about finishing. I have been noticing that several woodworkers that I follow apply a glossy clear coat for the first few layers and then they will finish with a semi-gloss clear coat. What is the purpose of starting with a “shinier” coat and then finish with a “less” shiny coat? Thanks in advance…Josh

2) Love the show, I have heard throughout several episodes of each of you stocking up on hundreds of board feet of lumber for potential future projects. Is there a specific dimension, specifically thickness and length that you typically look for? I’m assuming that in order to achieve a specific width, you can always glue boards together, but for posts or say table legs, is this what you do as well? Or for those specific projects do you just custom order a thicker stock in order to get the desired thickness. Hope my question makes any sense, apologize if it is basic. Keep the episodes coming!! Christopher

Huy

1) I am a retired rocket scientist who now obsesses over furniture rather than missiles which means I take precision to meaningless extremes.  I am replacing my 1977 Craftsman with a Powermatic 64B bought sight unseen.   I have a Vega 50” fence which I like quite a bit. The Craftsman will be donated to Habitat. Which of the two fences should I send along to Habitat or are they just a horse apiece?

My skill level is intermediate. If at all helpful the items I make are cabinets and tables used either at home or donated for charity auctions. The blade is a WW2, Bench Dog router table for the left wing.

bob

2) if I got one of those EXPENSIVE Forest Woodworker II combination blades (the modified one with a flat bottom cut), would I fall out of love with blade changes? Are they really that much better that I wouldn’t feel the need to change that I do now? I much prefer the cuts I’m getting now with the specific grinds compared to combination blades I’ve used in the past (the better quality “home center”  brands).

Is there a time, even with those expensive combination blades, that you all go back to a specifically rip or crosscut blade?

Thanks for any input!

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Guy

1) I’m writing about a project where we are making a table and using white oak for the first time. While most boards looked great throughout the milling process, we found that a few board exposed a lot of very small short cracks or voids along the “rays”. I’ve seen this a lot working with heart pine which i have epoxied.

How common is this and how do you deal with. Thanks, Mike @ Sibley Manor Woodworks

2) Greetings, love the show. How do each of you feel about hand held belt sanders? (3″X 21″ for example). Some fine woodworkers swear by them for projects such as table tops, while others won’t even touch them for the hatred of the uneven marks they can leave behind, and relegate them to rough construction only. From my experience I’m in the latter category, although I admit I may not be using the machine properly/correct technique. Are there any special tips or ‘insider’ knowledge on how to avoid the dips/valleys they leave behind? Or should I go ahead and list my belt sander on Craigslist and be done with it?

MLBETT Wood Works

Sean

1)Hey Guy(s),

Your podcast is great. Thanks for all the help.

I am in the process of building a detached garage. Part of it is going to be a shop area. It’s not going to be a big shop area by any means (15’x25’).  I’m planning on making some cabinets and furniture for our future house (kitchen cabinets, vanities, tables, bar area).  Currently, I borrow other friends and family members equipment when doing project due to my limited space in town.  My question is, what equipment do you recommend for my shop?  I realize you need more information so I’ll explain what I have and a budget. I’m looking to spend around $2000-$2,500.  I don’t have many tools but here is what I have – 10” compound sliding miter saw from Harbor Freight that cuts a little off, cordless drills, circular saw with clamp edge guide, jig saw, and a 1/4” trim router.  These tools got me by for small projects but I think it’s time to upgrade.

Thanks for the help!

Casey

2) Hey guys I love the podcast and what you’re doing to help the woodworking community.

About two years ago I finished my walnut dinning room table. It was my first major project in years since my high school shop days. I learned a lot doing it. But as always made mistakes.

I made my table using breadboard ends and I used third coast craftsman’s video as inspiration for the construction of my breadboard ends. After I assembled my table I noticed small gaps between my top and breadboard ends. I was wondering if you could think of any ideas to fix those gaps.  I appreciate the time. Thanks guys. – Trent

Huy

1) Hey guys – I am in the process of building a shed (my new workshop). It’s going to be 12×16. I will have full 8ft walls and a 7×5 steel rollup door (like the ones you see at storage units) and it will be insulated however most likely not climate controlled 24/7.

My main question is about lumber storage.  since it won’t be climate controlled 24/7 should  I be storing lumber in the shop or think about storing it elsewhere. Typically I will only have on hand what I need for the current project or 2. 

Any suggestions on maximizing storage in this small space? John

2) I recently bought some CA glue and activator, as I was reading the label it said that it needed to be kept in a cool place and even suggested storing it in the fridge.  Then I remembered that I heard that PVA glue can go bad if left in a place that is to hot.  Where do you guys store your adhesives? -Rick

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Guy

1) Next question: how much time do you spend working on workflow and process in the shop? I’m a night and weekend woodworker who is taking commission orders now and want to ensure I maximize my time in the shop to be the most effective. What are some tips tricks or source material you might suggest? Maybe Guy can lend an answer to this, as he is working in a full time production shop. Also, just down the road from you Guy, in Noblesville. Thanks in advance! -Thelibertycraftsman

2) Hi Guy, love the podcast. I have a question about the Festool Kapex. I’m about to purchase a new miter saw and am between the Kapex or the Bosch glider. The only concern I have are some of the comments  about the handle shape on the Kapex. Since you use it I’d like your opinion. It is expensive and want to be sure it’s worth it. I would really like a precision miter saw. Thanks you all and love the show. Anthony

Sean

1) I have the opportunity to get my hands on some ash trees that will be felled due to the emerald ash borer. I will have these trees slabbed and kiln dried by a local sawmill.

I am fairly new to woodworking and I am primarily a hand tool user.

My question for you guys is what are your thoughts on using ash to build either a Roubo style workbench. Is ash dense/heavy enough to be used as workbench.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Carlos @alberto_woodworks

2) Have you ever heard of anyone hiring someone for a weekend to come to your house and help make adjustments on multiple machines? My tablesaw, bandsaw, jointer and planer all work but could benefit from someone with experience double checking things and making minor adjustments. I  know that every machine has its own quirks so finding someone that knows my exact models would be difficult but I feel as though someone with more experience could make a big impact in a short period of time.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. – Evan

Huy

1) Hey guys my name is Anthony S. I am a novice woodworker with a focus on medieval furniture for the house and camp as my wife and I are part of a living history group. We are looking for  our first house. I would like to have one area of the house for a workshop. I use quite a few power tools in my work now and will hope to get a tablesaw and drill press after the house. I know I should be concerned with ventilation and dust collection, which will be determined by where in the house the workshop is, but I am hoping for it to be in the garage. I was wondering what else should we be looking for in a workshop space when house hunting.

2) I have a chance to buy a second hand Felder AF22 dust extractor. It is a 2.2kw 3HP machine but it has a three phase motor in it (I’m in the UK). Putting in three phase power is prohibitively expensive.

Do you have any experience of running a three phase machine with a VFD (preferably an inexpensive Chinese one) and can I use a remote control switch to activate it from my table saw. Many thanks, Mark

Information mentioned in the podcast from Huy: Acogedor AC 220V 2.2KW VFD Motor Inverter Speed Controller,Variable Frequency Drive with Wireless Remote Control

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Guy

1)When is the right time to pull the trigger?  I’m currently using an old Grizzly 6″ jointer that works fine but limits me in terms of both width and length of stock.  What measurements or guidelines do you all use to determine when it’s time to upgrade your shop equipment? Joel   

2) Right now I’ve really been trying to take time to learn and be comfortable with the foundational skills; practicing cuts and joinery. Do you have any tips on how to make more accurate angled cuts? For example, I started just making and octagon shaped frame this weekend. Getting all angles and lengths to perfectly match took way too many attempts 🤦‍♂️. Is this something you prefer a miter saw or table saw for? Any tools or accessories you suggest using that can be used to double check your saw blades are at the proper angle? Etc. Right now I have a cheap miter saw and a dewalt jobsite table saw. I know the tools aren’t the best, but I’m sure there are some things I could start doing and making into habits to get better as I start into this new hobby! -Brandon

Sean

1) Hey guys, could you recommend a mobile (2 stage) dust collection system for a hobbyist woodworker? I’m not looking to wall mount as I’m both, in a small space, and not in my “forever” shop. Perhaps DIY (where to start?) or from any brands is suitable. I don’t really know where to begin. Currently run a jobsite table saw, and looking to add a jointer and planer soon. 4” intake is preferred. Thanks! RJ

2) Questions for the podcast: is the Festool Domino worth it? Context: building a bar and stools out of 8/4 ash and need something to quickly join the legs of the stools together, as well as the bar and legs. I originally thought dowels or router out for loose mortise and tenon, but time is money, literally, as this is a project for a client. Should I spend the $1000+ for the domino, and save time, which allows me to get other client projects done (could use the domino on some of those projects too) or, save the $1000k, do it with dowels or a router and then spend the $1000+ on a delta tablesaw and a dewalt 735x planer? Planer would need to be on sale for the numbers to line up (bad at math!). I currently have a 1/2 hp craftsman table saw with upgraded fence. Thoughts? Thanks! Love the podcast! Thelibertycraftsman

Huy

1)Thanks for the time you invest in the podcast. I have been woodworking a long time but I am still learning. I do not make furniture but I still pick up lots of tips from you three. I am new to the bandsaw. I have a Laguna 14 Twelve. I mainly resaw logs for bowl blanks, since I do a lot of turning. I have been using a Laguna Proforce 3/4″ 3 tpi. The blade broke though it is only a couple months old and I have only milled about 3 dozen blanks. What are the causes for such a blade to break? I would appreciate any insight, so as to avoid breaking the new blade. Thanks. -Mark

2)The talk about bringing all sorts of lumber into your shop, like from a pile outdoors under a tin cover, has me wondering about contamination. Basically, were talking about a biodegradable material here, which starts growing microbial life on, in, and off it as soon as the tree dies. So is there ever any danger of bringing wood into your storage which infects your entire stock? Relatedly, should we never machine any rotting material because that would make the fungus etc airborne and infect the whole shop? -Warren