Episode 28 – Router Slab Jigs, Welding Jointer Fences, Crosscut Safely, & MUCH More!

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Questions

Guys

1) I would like to have a better understanding of what is safe and what isn’t when cross cutting on the table saw.

I have seen lots of videos and read lots of articles that mention how dangerous cross cutting on the table saw can be when the aspect ratio of the work is such that the distance between the blade and the fence exceeds the length of the edge that is against the fence. This makes perfect sense to me as you want to avoid the possibility of the work twisting between the blade and fence and kicking back.

However, there are countless videos of supposedly knowledgeable woodworkers breaking down sheet goods and violating this aspect ratio rule. Do these rules not really apply when breaking down sheet goods for some reason?

2) Hello, I just picked up a Incra Ls positioner fence at a yard sale for $20, (they didn’t know what it was). My question is when do you choose to use the Incra verses using your dovetail jig? I don’t currently have a dovetail jig, are there some situations where a dovetail jig would be better? Any general discussion on the Incra would be great. Thanks, keep up the good work, the podcast has been excellent! – Travis

Seans

1) This is a router operation question. I was recently making a new jig for a project that required that I cut a long slot all the way through a piece that would allow a bolt to slide along that piece. (The piece is 16 by 2 and is about 5/4 thick. I was cutting a 1/4 slot that ran in the middle of the piece for about 15 inches. It would allow bolts to pass through the piece and then it could slide along the bolts so that it’s position can be adjusted. Hope that makes sense)
I was using a 1/4 inch straight cutting bit in a router and making the cut in multiple passes. I had the cutting speed set relatively high (somewhere around 20,000 – 24,000 RPM) and was going about an 1/8 deep per pass. I was using a cheap bit so I was running in shallower passes than I would have thought necessary knowing that the performance of the bit is probably going to be lacking. Despite my best efforts the bit snapped off…Luckily it stayed in the groove I was cutting and did not become a projectile and there was no damage to the tool or the piece.
The situation raised a few questions for me:
1. How deep would you plunge that size a bit and expect it to cut without any safety or performance concerns? (my piece was laminated baltic birch ply if the material makes a difference. Bit was a 1/4 inch, 1/4 shank straight cutting bit.)
2. Is there something I should be doing in this type of situation to prevent this outcome? I had inserted the bit fully into the collet, I had set it to what I thought was an appropriate speed for it’s size and I went shallow with my cuts not to stress it too much. Did I do the right things there? Other than getting a better bit, what would you do differently?

2) Hi Guys,
My question is about Joiner fences. I picked up an old 6″ Delta Shop Master a few years that was in great condition, except that the fence on the outfeed side is welded to the table. I’ve never had the need to change the fence’s angle (it’s welded and calibrated to 90°) but I could see adjusting it’s depth to reduce wear on my straight blades.
Do you guys find your self moving the fence often, or at all and if so, why?
Thanks for sharing your expertise and furthering our craft! Justin

Huys

1) Ahoy fellas. Absolutely love the podcast, been listening for a long time… BUT first time question for you.

Router Slab jigs. I’m getting ready to do an epoxy table and have seen plenty of “how to” videos on building your own on the Tube of You. But none of them explain how to set them up. What exactly needs to be parallel? Do I need a perfectly flat surface to set my piece on or no? I’m guessing as long as I shim my workpiece, I’ll be fine. But then do I also have to make sure the piece is roughly on the same plane as the rails?

Overall my main worry is getting finished and I have one side of my table thinner than the other.

What am I missing?

Appreciate it! Keep up the GREAT work. Paul

2) Gonna keep this one simple. What is your favorite style of furniture to you enjoy building? Second part, what is your favorite period of furniture if it differs from what you enjoy building?

Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on!

Thanks,
Brent Jarvis
Clean Cut Woodworking

Social Media Mentions

Sean: @christopherscottfurniture

Huy: @danielfurnituremaker

Guy: @Karlholm.design

Episode 27 – Drying Lumber, Ash Holes, Differences In Glues, & MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon:https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) I’ve always valued the information y’all share on the podcast and this one popped into my head.

Sitting at work today as I was looking for the end of the internet I went down the rabbit hole of different wood glues. After going down the rabbit hole there was a lot of things that actually made sense for using different glues for different applications. I have always just used titebond 3 because it just seems like the most versatile of any other glue out there. It’s water resistant and food safe so why have 15 different glues for 1000 different applications. As I grow more and more into the trade it leads me to wanting to move more toward the more tried and true methods that some of the most reputable woodworkers have proved to be the best practices for certain applications. Leading into the question, (minus brands if you don’t want to go there) What types of glues do you migrate to the most and what is the reason for that? Is it a certain type of glue for a certain application or do you sort of do like me and stick with a particular glue for any project you make? Would you design a project and decide that you’re going to use a certain type of glue for it over another?

Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on!

Thanks,
Brent Jarvis
Clean Cut Woodworking

2) Re: your pick for the ETS125 – is that just a smaller Rotex 150 basically? Why not use RO150 to cover more area? I only have the RO150 and the triangle shaped one… DTS?? JJ

Seans Questions:

1) I’ve got a large hole in a piece of ash. I’m not sure what to do with it. Other than. Fill with a black epoxy because the top will be stained pretty dark. I’m just worried it will be a really dark spot -Casey

2) Hi Guys, 
I am working on an entry table with through mortise and tenon joints with the tenon as a show feature. I am cutting the mortises using a drill press and cleaning up with chisels. I tried a sample piece and it does not look great. Is there a good technique to get a near perfect joint? Or will I be okay filling in the cracks with sawdust/glue filler trick? What do you recommend?
Thanks for the advice. Keep up the great podcast!
Thanks,
James

Huys Questions:

1) My son had a black walnut cut down last October. The arborist also had a portable mill so he milled up a number of slabs for me. I have kept these slabs in my garage since then. They are stickered and I put three ratchet straps around the pile to hopefully keep them flat. When is the right time to move them into the house? Is it ok to keep them in the garage? Have you guys harvested any lumber like this? I know Cremona has a process but I want to know what normal people do! JK! I love Cremona

I’ve really enjoyed the format of the podcast. I listen to a number of them and I have to say this is on the top of the list.

David

2) I’ve been commissioned to restore a round oak table with several leafs and 6 chairs….built in the early 1900’s!

I’m excited for this project but restoration is still somewhat new to me. The table does have some water marks and other blushing on the finish, it I still don’t know what the finish is. I’d like to stay away from heavier solvents to avoid damaging the wood.

Would going straight to an orbital sander or by hand with 120 be my best bet to get through safely? And if I wanted to try and remove a layer with a stripper of sorts, would I just guess between the mineral spirits or alcohols?

Would love to hear your thoughts on this!
Joey from Winter Wolf Woodworking

Our Social Picks:

Huy: @plakotoris_studio

Guy: @stenewoodwork

Sean: @MrCabinetMaker

Episode 26 – Favorite Router Bits, Pricing Your Work, Table Saw Dust Collection, and MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon:https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) Do you believe a grounding wire is required for home/hobby dust collection systems ? Eric

2) Hi Guys, love the podcast. I have a question on pricing / bidding your work. Do you have a standard formula, eg. 4x material? Do you ask the potential client how much they’re looking to spend and see if you can do it profitably? Any banter and guidance on the subject would be appreciated. Hope to make it into the podcast. Best, Will

Seans Questions:

1) Hello guys, first of all great podcast, the questions are always my favourite part of any podcast so I really love your format. My question is regarding a standard drum sander vs. an orbital drum sander. I have seen a few on Craigslist for sale- the one I’m considering is a 2010 Jet 22-44max for $400. In doing research I see a lot of the new models are random orbit. Will this make a huge difference? I’m on a budget so a new machine isn’t going to happen and I haven’t seen any used random orbit models for sale. -Travis

2)Hey Guys!!!! A big fan of all 3 of you and love the show!!!!
Question for all of you…What brand of router bits do you prefer? With there being tons out there, which one is your go-to brand of bits? Whiteside, Freud, Amana, CMT, Irwin, etc… I hear lots of tool reviews out there, but never a really lot on router bits.
I would love to hear your thoughts on it and see which ones you guys like.
Keep the podcast coming!!!!

Nick

Huys Questions:

1) Not liking the end of day cough, I’ve been investing in dust collection. I use a Festool dust extractor for small tools. I run a WEN air filter. I have built a DIY cyclone separator out of an older JET 30um bag collector. The one tool that still throws dust all over me and into the air is my Sawtop table saw. I’m thinking of investing in ovehead dust collection, but I’m wondering if it is practical, effective, and worth the investment. As I think Sean has the sawstop dust collection guard, I’m wondering how well it works or if there are better alternatives. What is your experience?

John from AZ

2) Are there any pieces of furniture that are in your home that you wish you had not bought/made? I often look at the furniture that I bought from a certain Swedish brand and wish I had the time to make something nicer/better. Thanks guys, love the pod and keep up the great work. Paul

Social Picks
Sean@markbuildsit
Huy@lesliewebbdesign
Guy@satansdogg

Episode 25 – Flush Trim Bits, Mentors, Sharpening Jointer Knives, and MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) Would also like to get either an Incra Miter Sled or Miter Gauge. I see they have a sled/gauge combo or a sled with an integral miter gauge. Can you discuss the pros and cons of each option? – David

2) For Router table use is there really a difference when using a pattern bit vs a flush-trim bit when you want to flush an edge up with a template? Does riding the bearing on top vs on the bottom cause any safety concern? Does one leave a better/worse edge or does it even matter? Thanks, Ryan

Seans Questions:

1) Hey guys, love the podcast. Especially listening to guy, because I feel like I’m listening to myself from the future. In response to your recent call for more questions, I have one about tool sharpening. Specifically, what kind of honing jig to buy. I see there are a lot of them out there, but do you have any recommendations on a specific one to get. I’m getting into more hand tool work, and I want to be able to maintain my own chisels, as well as restore some old hand planes that I have. Any advice you may have is much appreciated. Thanks again for being willing to share your knowledge and experience. -Tavis

2) You’ve mentioned some of the books you’ve relied on, and I appreciate that, since I’m a green-as-grass beginner, and benefit from any source of information I can get. I’d also like to hear you talk about what mentors or teachers you had who helped shape your skills. Have any of you taken formal classes or gone to woodworking schools? I know that the best way to develop skills is by building furniture and learning from mistakes, but I also hope to participate in a class sometime, if only to find an active woodworking community. – Martin

Huys Questions:

1) I’ve recently bought a good planer/jointer combo machine. It uses 3 planer knives in the cutter block. I won’t be using it enough to consider an upgrade to some sort of helical cutterhead. So I’ve been thinking about a practical way to sharpen the knives. I’ve come to a jig, some sort of wooden block with an insert for one knife. The top surface of the block is tilted in such a way that my water stones have support for the correct angle when I use them to sharpen the edge.
The jig works, but I wonder if there is a more practical (faster) way to sharpen. I see that Tormek sells a sharpening system that does this, but since it costs more than the helical cutter block, I find that too expensive.
My question: do you know of an affordable sharpening system for planer knives (mine are 10″ long)? – Bart

2) Looking at finishing the top I was going to use epiphanies spar varnish but was wary of using this finish because of UV resistance. Would this inhibit the natural darkening of Cherry? My other option was General finishes ARM R seal or Waterlox. I don’t have way to spray so conversion varnish is out of the question.

My other thought was to dye the slab with Lye and use the Epifanes.

Keep up the good work.

Thanks
Jesse
Beechland Furniture

Social Picks

Guy: @kingposttimberworks

Sean: @hawthorne_fine_boxes

Huy: @affinecreations

Episode 24 – Natural Finishes, Used Machinery, Dado Stacks, and MUCH More!

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) Hi guys love the show. I have a question about finishes. My generation (millennial) is into natural products. So I would like to have most and if not all my products that I have lined up ready to be finished to be natural. I’ve thought about shellac but for the projects that will be around alcohol, shellac is basically out of the picture. But I was wondering if I could put wax over it and that would help with the sealing or if I have to try something else? If I have to try something else what would you suggest that’s a natural sealer? Some of my projects include a tabletop and beer caddy. Have you ever heard of the safe coat as a sealer? -Paige

2) Absolutely love the podcast guys, keeps my long drives to and from work educational and also tolerable.

I know finishing has been covered a lot, but I can’t recall if the technique was ever covered. And also technique specific to the type of finish. I would love to spray everything, but as my shop is also my garage that isn’t always an option. What have you found easiest for applying different finishes? Natural bristle brushes, synthetic/polyester bristle brushes, foam brushes, plain old wiping on with an old t-shirt, spit shine, etc….I’ve also noticed I’m finding myself putting 2-3 coats on and then sanding back a coat instead of doing the light sanding with every single coat. Seems to work, but am I just wasting finish due to impatience? And Guy always talks about his famous BLO, poly, naphtha wipe-on varnish. I’d love to try that, how is it mixed and what is the amount of each product in the final mixture?

Finishing never ends and I’d love to hear your thoughts.
Joey from Winter Wolf Woodworking

Seans Questions:

1) I’m in the market for my first Jointer. As usual, not a lot of money to spend. I am looking for a used Jointer and would like to know what I should be looking for, what I should avoid, and how to prioritize this list. The price range is up to $400. My project focus is furniture and jewelry box making. I have a small shop, under 200 sqft. Love your podcast and really appreciate all the information and tips you guys share. Thomas

2) I know this may be a bit of a loaded question as there are so many variables to consider but with the audience that is to be considered. I know what my particular practices are and they haven’t failed me yet. I believe it may be a good one for some of the “newer” woodworkers out there would really benefit from hearing it from some highly experienced makers as yourselves.

Hi fellows… I would normally say guys but well… we all know theirs only one Guy here. I wanted to know about glueing up a panel from several boards. When gluing up a panel at what point would you consider using something such as a dowel or a domino to keep the boards aligned? Is there a certain thickness, length, or even width that you’d feel that there would be a need for adding this type of structural support to the glue-up. I know that they help out a ton with alignment but I’d like to know what your thoughts are on this subject.

Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on!

Thanks,
Brent Jarvis

Huys Questions:

1) I’m in the process of revamping and improving my shop, and the next step is dust collection. I have a 1.5 hp Shop Fox dust collector moving 1280 cfm of air. My problem is always with the friction loss in the flexible hoses. I plan to install 6” pvc on the wall and snub shorter flexible sections to some of the bigger tools. My question is regarding the split offs. Are the stop gates enough to single out air flow to certain machines? And what is the best way to reduce this down to a hose for handheld power tools?

2) I would like to purchase a new dado stack. I have an old Craftsman set that is steel – not carbide tipped. What do you guys use? Can you recommend a brand that works for you?

Social Picks

Guys: @bearkatwood

Seans: @duncangowdy

Huys: @louis_fry_furniture