Woodshop Life Podcast

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) Would also like to get either an Incra Miter Sled or Miter Gauge. I see they have a sled/gauge combo or a sled with an integral miter gauge. Can you discuss the pros and cons of each option? – David

2) For Router table use is there really a difference when using a pattern bit vs a flush-trim bit when you want to flush an edge up with a template? Does riding the bearing on top vs on the bottom cause any safety concern? Does one leave a better/worse edge or does it even matter? Thanks, Ryan

Seans Questions:

1) Hey guys, love the podcast. Especially listening to guy, because I feel like I’m listening to myself from the future. In response to your recent call for more questions, I have one about tool sharpening. Specifically, what kind of honing jig to buy. I see there are a lot of them out there, but do you have any recommendations on a specific one to get. I’m getting into more hand tool work, and I want to be able to maintain my own chisels, as well as restore some old hand planes that I have. Any advice you may have is much appreciated. Thanks again for being willing to share your knowledge and experience. -Tavis

2) You’ve mentioned some of the books you’ve relied on, and I appreciate that, since I’m a green-as-grass beginner, and benefit from any source of information I can get. I’d also like to hear you talk about what mentors or teachers you had who helped shape your skills. Have any of you taken formal classes or gone to woodworking schools? I know that the best way to develop skills is by building furniture and learning from mistakes, but I also hope to participate in a class sometime, if only to find an active woodworking community. – Martin

Huys Questions:

1) I’ve recently bought a good planer/jointer combo machine. It uses 3 planer knives in the cutter block. I won’t be using it enough to consider an upgrade to some sort of helical cutterhead. So I’ve been thinking about a practical way to sharpen the knives. I’ve come to a jig, some sort of wooden block with an insert for one knife. The top surface of the block is tilted in such a way that my water stones have support for the correct angle when I use them to sharpen the edge.
The jig works, but I wonder if there is a more practical (faster) way to sharpen. I see that Tormek sells a sharpening system that does this, but since it costs more than the helical cutter block, I find that too expensive.
My question: do you know of an affordable sharpening system for planer knives (mine are 10″ long)? – Bart

2) Looking at finishing the top I was going to use epiphanies spar varnish but was wary of using this finish because of UV resistance. Would this inhibit the natural darkening of Cherry? My other option was General finishes ARM R seal or Waterlox. I don’t have way to spray so conversion varnish is out of the question.

My other thought was to dye the slab with Lye and use the Epifanes.

Keep up the good work.

Thanks
Jesse
Beechland Furniture

Social Picks

Guy: @kingposttimberworks

Sean: @hawthorne_fine_boxes

Huy: @affinecreations

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) Hi guys love the show. I have a question about finishes. My generation (millennial) is into natural products. So I would like to have most and if not all my products that I have lined up ready to be finished to be natural. I’ve thought about shellac but for the projects that will be around alcohol, shellac is basically out of the picture. But I was wondering if I could put wax over it and that would help with the sealing or if I have to try something else? If I have to try something else what would you suggest that’s a natural sealer? Some of my projects include a tabletop and beer caddy. Have you ever heard of the safe coat as a sealer? -Paige

2) Absolutely love the podcast guys, keeps my long drives to and from work educational and also tolerable.

I know finishing has been covered a lot, but I can’t recall if the technique was ever covered. And also technique specific to the type of finish. I would love to spray everything, but as my shop is also my garage that isn’t always an option. What have you found easiest for applying different finishes? Natural bristle brushes, synthetic/polyester bristle brushes, foam brushes, plain old wiping on with an old t-shirt, spit shine, etc….I’ve also noticed I’m finding myself putting 2-3 coats on and then sanding back a coat instead of doing the light sanding with every single coat. Seems to work, but am I just wasting finish due to impatience? And Guy always talks about his famous BLO, poly, naphtha wipe-on varnish. I’d love to try that, how is it mixed and what is the amount of each product in the final mixture?

Finishing never ends and I’d love to hear your thoughts.
Joey from Winter Wolf Woodworking

Seans Questions:

1) I’m in the market for my first Jointer. As usual, not a lot of money to spend. I am looking for a used Jointer and would like to know what I should be looking for, what I should avoid, and how to prioritize this list. The price range is up to $400. My project focus is furniture and jewelry box making. I have a small shop, under 200 sqft. Love your podcast and really appreciate all the information and tips you guys share. Thomas

2) I know this may be a bit of a loaded question as there are so many variables to consider but with the audience that is to be considered. I know what my particular practices are and they haven’t failed me yet. I believe it may be a good one for some of the “newer” woodworkers out there would really benefit from hearing it from some highly experienced makers as yourselves.

Hi fellows… I would normally say guys but well… we all know theirs only one Guy here. I wanted to know about glueing up a panel from several boards. When gluing up a panel at what point would you consider using something such as a dowel or a domino to keep the boards aligned? Is there a certain thickness, length, or even width that you’d feel that there would be a need for adding this type of structural support to the glue-up. I know that they help out a ton with alignment but I’d like to know what your thoughts are on this subject.

Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on!

Thanks,
Brent Jarvis

Huys Questions:

1) I’m in the process of revamping and improving my shop, and the next step is dust collection. I have a 1.5 hp Shop Fox dust collector moving 1280 cfm of air. My problem is always with the friction loss in the flexible hoses. I plan to install 6” pvc on the wall and snub shorter flexible sections to some of the bigger tools. My question is regarding the split offs. Are the stop gates enough to single out air flow to certain machines? And what is the best way to reduce this down to a hose for handheld power tools?

2) I would like to purchase a new dado stack. I have an old Craftsman set that is steel – not carbide tipped. What do you guys use? Can you recommend a brand that works for you?

Social Picks

Guys: @bearkatwood

Seans: @duncangowdy

Huys: @louis_fry_furniture

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) Hey Guys, a question on when a breadboard end is needed on a table top. I’m making my first kitchen table with a 5/4 35” x 8’ oak top. My client didn’t like the look of a breadboard end so I’m a bit concerned about movement down the road. The top won’t overhang the aprons by more than 4” and I’m planning to connect it with those z clips with a couple of cross pieces to keep it rigid. Do you think I run a risk of cupping? I’ve thought about getting some of those c-channel iron to route into the underside but is that overkill?

Homarus woodworks

2) Hi guys, love the show. I have a would you rather question on finishing. Would you rather finish a whole large project or try and match a finish for a smaller project. My specific scenario is refinishing my basement bar. I’m going with dark cabinets and I know I’m going to have to make shelves and trim to match. Do I get unfinished cabinets and finish it all myself so they’re the same, or try and match prefinished cabinets? Thanks! Matt

Seans Questions:

1) Hi, I have a question for the podcast. I am about to start drawers for my dresser build and the sides call for 1/2″ material. Would you use 4/4 material making a lot of waste or would you go to a thicker material and resaw for the 1/2″ final dimensions hoping to cut down on waste? Would the type of wood you are using sway your decision as wood stability may cause the wood to cup/bow more than others? Thanks, Ryan.

2) Is there a special technique for sanding round overs? I’ve tried sanding round overs by hand, but end up with scratch marks long the “top” of the piece. When I try sanding with a random orbit sander, I feel like it eats away too much wood and it’s not a consistent round over anymore. Thoughts? Matt

Huys Questions:

1) I’m wanting to make a cross-cut sled for trimming the ends on boards that I’ve glued up. I want the cross-cut sled to have the most capacity that it can. So, I’m probably going to end up building something like Huy’s “Aircraft carrier”.

Any tips on making that thing as accurate as it can possibly be? Is there anything you’d do differently if you had to remake it?

Y’all are great! Keep the podcasts coming!!
Cory

2) My question for all of you is about ordering lumber and sheet goods online versus buying in person and being able to pick through and select boards.

Do you have experience ordering large quantities of sheet goods online? What about hardwoods? What do I need to know before placing an order for things like this?

Any tips for ensuring I receive quality plywood for cabinets? I’m relatively new to woodworking so any technical advice or terminology to use would be greatly appreciated. I know higher quality plywood typically has more plies, but I’m not sure how to even specify this or tell how many plies the sheets for sale online have.

Could you recommend any sources for ordering online? I’m located in the Tampa, Florida area.

I am tired of imposing on friends and family to borrow a pickup truck to pick up all the sheet goods I need and I don’t mind paying for the convenience of truck delivery if it’s an option worth considering. However, I do not want to waste money if I’m going to get all the crappy sheets that they can’t sell in person because they are all busted and warped with gaps in the laminations.

Thank you all for putting out such quality and informative podcast. I’ve enjoyed every episode so far.-Hunter

Our Social Picks

Guy: @tomfoolerywood

Sean: @mhwoodworker

Huy: @eastoakww

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) Hey guys keep up the good work on the podcast. My question is regarding grain fillers. Have you ever used these on open grain species such as oak to get a smooth finish? I have an oak bar table I’m in the process of making and was contemplating using this after a waterbased dye and before a finish coat of waterlox.
Thanks, Jesse

2) I find the vacuum bag to be more than just a clamp for veneer. I want one and would like to know what I should be looking for when considering a purchase. -sergeantmaker

Seans Questions:

1) How much scrap is too much? I like to hold onto smaller pieces I can make into wedges, bow ties, etc….but when is enough truly enough? Are there certain pieces you’ll keep, more rare species of wood? Or is it straight to the kindling pile? Winter wolf woodworking

2) Good morning Guy, Huy, and Sean. I had a question on tool brands. I get asked all the time from my peers in the community what brand of tool is better than another. My general answer to all of them is usually the same every time. Within the budget you’re looking to spend there are usually a few different brands. Within those price points, all of these tools are going to perform basically at the same level and have the same features. The best thing you can do is go put your hands on it, feel the tool, see how it works and if it’s a good fit for you. My question to you all is when you are looking for a new tool no matter hand tool or power tool is a particular brand one of the first things you look for or do you go after that budget point versus quality and functionality? Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops!

Thanks,
Brent Jarvis
Clean Cut Woodworking

Huys Questions:

1)  I have a couple questions about lumber storage. This would be for dried lumber. Do you store it horizontally with stickers, horizontal without stickers, or can you store it vertical? For longer lumber, it may be more efficient to store it vertically. What do you guys do? David

2) I was wondering if any of you use specialty chisels in your work. Fishtail or skew chisels for example. Do you have multiple sets? Mortise, dovetail, paring, etc. Keep up the good work. Joshua Messick

Our Social Media Picks:

Guy: @nickjamesdesign

Sean: @jonathanscott_woodcrafts

Huy: @alcornwoodworking

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife

Guys Questions:

1) I’m interested to know, before youtube and Instagram, who inspired you? -ralphbrackney

2) Is there any issue with the combo machines having a shorter bed length for the planer aspect? – Brent

Seans Questions:

1) What is your biggest screw up/mistake on a project and what did you do to fix, cover up or a notable screw up with a clever fix. Not the worst but you got creative with the fix.
-R2 Woodworking.

2) I just wanted to say thank you guys for sharing your wealth of knowledge on the subject of woodworking. I work as a law enforcement officer and listening to your podcasts on my way home from work help me not only unwind but expand my understanding of the craft.

I am a hobbyist who is just getting into woodworking and was curious if you guys could point me in the right direction of specific written literature so I can really nail down the basics before moving on to more complex tasks.

Thanks again,

Luke

Huys Questions:

1)Regarding thin kerf blades – seems like you guys didn’t like them? I bought a “Freud” thin kerf ripping blade for my underpowered Delta from Lowes. That Freud thin kerf completed changed my saw for the better. Huge difference. Anyway were you guys worried about flex or something with the thin kerf? I didn’t understand. – JJ

2) Years ago, before I really got into woodworking, I painted some cheap 1/4” plywood for a project. I only painted one side and over (very little) time the pieces curled up like taco shells. Since then, I have always finished both sides of the plywood. I am currently making a shelving unit that will be wedged into a corner. I am using 3/4” blondewood ply from the big box stores. The backside of the shelving unit will never be seen. On plywood this thick, do I still need to keep painting both sides? If so, does it need an equal number of coats on both sides? – Hunter Robinson

Books mentioned:

Essential Joinery

Illustrated Cabinetmaking

The Why and How of Woodworking

The Anarchist’s Tool Chest

Understanding Wood

The Complete Illustrated Guide To Joinery

Our Social Media Picks:

Guy: @tim_noone_furnituredesign

Sean: @haltaylor_rocks

Huy: @bbumslife