Woodshop Life Podcast

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Guys Questions:

1) Hey guys. Love the pod! I have I think an easy question. This is my first project with hard woods other than poplar trimming. So here it goes…

I am making one of those balancing wine holders as a birthday gift but I want to dress it up a bit. I have a piece of hard maple. I want to frame the maple with a .5” -.75” strip of Purple Heart around it, mitered in the top corners. The overall dimensions will be about 15” x 5.5” My question is this. The top piece of Purple Heart would be running the grain perpendicular to the maple. Is this a bad idea? Should I cross cut that strip of PH so all the grain is running the length of the piece? -Jonvigorito

2) Thank you so much for putting out this podcast, it’s made my boring commute to work a whole lot more enjoyable!

My question is, what are your thoughts on using the Metric system in your shop? As an American woodworker, I primarily use Imperial units for measuring, but have found it easier to switch to Metric for certain tasks like dividing a space by an odd number.

Thanks again,
Justin

Seans Questions:

1) Wondering what you guys recommend for a good doweling jig, that can do both wide and thin stock? Also your opinion on the Triton Dowel jointer. – Christopher

2) Hey guys just started listening to your show, I’m new to woodworking and every episode I’ve learned something new from you guys. Love the show. I’m starting to work with hardwoods for the first time, been wanting to make cutting boards, coasters, cigar ash trays etc. looking into Thin Kerf blades but don’t know much about them. So my first question is are they necessary, and secondly which ones do you suggest(more on the low end of price) I’ve looked at Freud 10” 24T Ripping Saw & Amana Tool Mamba Series MA10024 Thin Kerf Ripping 10-Inch x 24 Tooth. Thanks in advance – Tom(Tom_the_Builder_17 on ig) 

Huys Questions:

1) Hey guys! I have a question regarding hand planes/Electric hand planes…

I am looking at buying an electric hand plane (likely the Triton 3 blade unlimited rebate planer) instead of a nice Veritas low angle plane. I don’t finish with a card scraper or smoothing plane as I haven’t had enough practice, yet I am very pleased with the results I get sanding. Am I crazy to think that an electric hand plane will do a great job at taking down high spots, to flatten a table top over a finely tuned hand plane? I’m finishing by sanding, so I don’t need the plane to leave a glassy smooth surface. I need the high spots gone and gone quickly. I ask because I don’t see many other woodworkers using this method, but in my mind it seems much more efficient (if finishing by sanding). I’d love to hear your response on the podcast. Nobile builds

2) Hey guys, I’m expanding my sharpening set up, and looking to add a grinder for initial squaring and hollow grinding. I am looking at cheap options and I’m torn between a slow speed 8 inch grinder, or the cheap wet grinder made by WEN. Do you have any recommendations or suggestions? Zacs wood studio

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Guys Questions:

1) Hey one of you guys said you wouldn’t buy a saw stop saw, that there are great saws for a lesser price. I also don’t fear cutting my hand as much as kickback. I was wondering what are some other saws on the market you would suggest over sawstop . -Christopher

2) Hey guys, I’m really enjoying the 
podcast—very informative! I’m finally in a position to buy my first Festool tools, and I plan on buying the Domino, Track saw, and dust extractor. My question is: should I buy the TS 75 and the DF 700 (with the Seneca adapters for smaller cutters) or go with the smaller models? Currently, 95% of my work could be done with the smaller versions, but I can see needing the bigger versions in the future. I live in Portland Oregon and can throw a rock out my window and hit someone selling a slab. Also, I can see myself purchasing an MFT style table, and I’m not sure how well the 75 would work on it.

Thank you,
Ryans rough cut woodworking

Seans Questions:

1) Hey guys, I had another one for you. I heard in a previous episode about how you guys struggled to get your bandsaws working after the riser block was installed. That bummed me out 😅 because I’m planning to get one for my Powermatic PWBS-14CS. I got the saw and mobile base for $700 on Craigslist, it’s in perfect condition because the elderly man who bought it sadly passed away soon after. It’s got the Carter tension deal and killer guides, lots of cast iron…etc… my question was whether or not you feel like I’d get better results using the Powermatic riser block on a Powermatic bandsaw . I’m a luthier/aspiring woodworker and would love to be able to resaw smaller panels for guitar tops/backs/sides. I wouldn’t be asking too much of it in terms of huge boards run through it. I only foresee resawing 7”-9” wide boards for now and while I’d love to get Guy’s 15”, I wonder if the $120 for the riser could get me by for the next year or two until I could swing for something with greater HP -Jonathan

2) Hi Guys, the podcast is great and I’m loving the format of Q&A. I had two questions below for the podcast, keep up the good work!

1. How do you guys handle machine noise and neighbors? I’m currently in the process of building a shop and have neighbors pretty close on all 3 sides (15-20 ft away). I think my best option is to go with 2×8 plates with staggered stud wall with Rockwool weaved in-between the studs and 5/8″ drywall. What other options do you guys use to reduce noise?

2. Dust collection in the floor? Yes or No. I was thinking maybe one 6″ line coming where the table saw will be located and everything else located on the perimeter walls.

Thanks,
Jesse
Beechland Furniture

Huys Questions:

1) I’m looking to do my first dining table and set of chairs. I love mission style/arts and crafts furniture, and would like to design my own rendition in a similar style. My main questions are around proper chair and table proportions, expandable table hardware, keeping table tops flat, and how to create comfortable chairs.

Are there any great books or resources you would recommend? -Jake

2) Thanks for all of your insight into the world of woodworking. I’ve got a question regarding the differences between a 12” disc sander (Rikon 12 inch $299) and a oscillating edge/spindle sander (Rigid $249). What are the benefits of each? What do you guys prefer? It seems like the Rigid has more capability and is cheaper but am I missing something? Any other thoughts on them or similar machines?

Crwoodshop

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Guys Questions:

1) Loving the podcast gentlemen, listened to all 10 episodes in the last 2 days. Now for my question:

I know all three of you do a lot of your sanding using the drum sander, but for us without the room for one what is your recommend sanding procedure. Hand sand vs. random orbital sander? Grit progression? ROS preference? Just give me all that great knowledge you have!!

Thanks again guy! -Project Build stuff – Brad

2) I’m in the market for a router table and lift. All of the router lifts appear to be more or less the same, many being produced by Jessem. Router compatibility isn’t a concern, as I’ll mount the ubiquitous PC 7518. Can you talk about the Kreg PRS5000 and how it compares to the Jessem (and thus Incra) lifts, woodpeckers PRL-V2, etc? I haven’t found much info out there. They all seem to feature above-table bit changes, micro adjustment, etc. Is there any actual difference between all these, or should I just pick my favorite color? Thanks! – Kevin

Seans Questions:

1) Hey guys, I’m really enjoying the podcast. I have a question for you. When starting woodworking a block plane always seems to be high on the list for “must have tools”. I purchase one and agree it is extremely usefully. However several times I’m need the rabbet block plane instead. I know I loose that function with a standard block plane but If I had purchased the rabbet block plane instead what functionality would I have sacrificed? Keep the saw dust flying. Josh

2) What concerns should I have with my jointer and planer being at my father in-law’s shop; due to spacing and budget. Should I mill it and let it acclimate there or bring it back to my shop to let it acclimate? Could I get by with hand tools at my shop if there’s any additional movement after acclimating at his shop?

I should add that our planer is a DW735, so that is portable between the shops. Also, I use kiln dried lumber and my shop isn’t yet heated but his is and more climate controlled.
-Nik

Huys Questions:

1) Alright my question is all about hand tool cabinets/hand tool walls. What are your most reached for items? What were the thoughts on tool placement and ergonomics when you built yours? Have you had to rebuild upon acquiring new tools or remodel to accommodate shifts in your preferences?

To be clear I’m not looking for the “these are the top five tools to get first when on a budget” kind of thing when I ask about most reached for. I’m trying to plan ahead and build something a bit “future proof” with the ability to expand as I acquire new tools. So don’t feel bad talking about “x” high-end thing that you love and reach for often. I’m excited to hear about what those items are, regardless of price point. Because that will be something I can weigh in on whether or not it’s a tool I could see myself getting down the road and would consider saving some space for. Love the show, keep up the great work! -Jonathan Scott woodworks

2) Very much enjoying your podcast and it’s focus on woodworking questions and techniques. I’m in the process of building and designing a new workbench for my shop. I have the Rockler quick release face vise but I can’t seem to find a solid answer as to how to install it. Should the inner face of the vise be flush with the workbench top, or should I install it so that the inner face is a separate piece from the workbench top? Curious as to your opinions on this matter. – Dustin

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Guy’s Questions:

1) Here’s a question for you. I need create a buildup for a mantle top. Will be painted finish. 6’ wide x 10” deep x 1-1/4” thick. I was going to glue up a piece of 3/4” maple ply and 1/2” mdf. Then will edge band with 3/4” thick soft maple. Do you guys think I will have issues with the top due to gluing to dissimilar materials? Thanks!!! Alan

2) I have listened to every episode so far and love them all. I would to hear your guys setups for your sprayers. I am trying to decide if it makes more sense to buy a large 60 gallon plus compressor to run hvlp guns off or to buy a stand alone unit like a earlex or Fuji. It will be used for a little bit of everything. The wife likes some stuff painted but I get away with just shellac from time to time as well – Kyle

Sean’s Questions:

1) Good evening, Sean! I know you guys are getting a ton of questions for the podcast, but I wanted to add one more. I’ve been eyeballing the jointer/planer combo machines and was curious on yours, Huys, and Guys opinions on them. – W.B. Designs

2) Question for you guys: I am making a coffee table that will essentially be a square box (36”Lx36”Wx17”H, 3/4” stock)with an opening lid on top. The client (my wife) wants beveled / mitered corners. My question is what is your preferred method for cutting the 45? Table saw, router table, track saw? I just made a small box using the table saw with a digital angle finder and checked with a square to ensure 45. It came out close but still seems a few thousands off. Maybe I’m expecting to much? This seems so simple yet it is hard to achieve. – Circle City Woodworking

Huy’s Questions:

1) Love the podcast guys. I was someone who made a living at woodworking back in the day but am back to working out of my garage where I started 30 years ago. Having said that, what advice can you give about dust collection, given the garage shop environment is so confined. I’ve got at Jet 2 micron collector but am looking to get something specifically for the chop saw station. Thanks for your input and sorry for the long question

– Mike

2) As a follow up to my bandsaw blade question: I made a lazy mistake on a set of boxes this past weekend. The boxes are mitered corners, with top and bottom panels captured in respective grooves. I glued up the boxes and was set to cut off the lids. Didn’t change out the 3/16″ 10 TPI blade in the bandsaw. The 5″ height on the zebrawood box had the blade wandering off the line at the beginning of the cut. So I have an unintentionally curvy intersection between lid and box. (continued…)

I flattened the bottom of the lid with my drum sander. But the box portion is too tall to pass through the drum sander. How do I flatten the top of the box? Light pass through table saw (it would have to be two cuts)? Change the blade on the bandsaw and take a light pass there? I can’t imagine the planer is a great idea because I’d expect tear out on the backside. Or would it work with super light passes? What would you guys do? Sunrise Woodshop

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Guys Questions:

1) Have you guys ever done a traditional French polish and if so how did you do it. Thanks and I love the podcast. Kyle

2) Gentleman, thank you for answering my question in Episode 7. Ive got a new question for you. Blade Cleaning versus Blade Sharpening. We all know it’s a good practice the clean blades regularly and personally I go with some warm water and simple green, it’s worked great for me. My question is, what are the signs I should look for when I’m beyond this simple solution and it’s time to get my blades sharpened. Thanks and keep up the good work! Hubbell Woodshop

Seans Questions:

1) Hey guys, wondering if you can recommend a table saw for me outside of a larger cabinet saw. Space is limited for me and being able to move it around my workshop is key. I own a track saw for breaking down sheet goods, but am lacking a saw to rip thinner pieces consistently. I’d like something with a good fence and miter slots to use some jigs I will make. Thanks for any help you may have! – RJ

Link Sean Mentioned: https://www.toolboxbuzz.com/head-to-head/best-portable-jobsite-table-saw-head-to-head/

2) Who came first, chicken/egg? So in your wood shop what comes first, jointing/planing? And what’s your process? Winter Wolf Woodworking

Huys Questions:

1) Got another question: When planning a project what factors do you consider when deciding between ordering thicker stock 8/4 (or thicker) or laminating thinner stock to thickness? It hard to find 8/4 white oak in my area even though 4/4 is plentiful. Are there any rules of thumb that say never laminate x parts? When is it not ok to laminate?
Josh

2) What bandsaw blades are you guys running for “everyday” use? I’ve mainly used timberwolf blades. 3/4″ 3 TPI for resaw, 1/4″ 6 TPI for general purpose, 3/16″ 10 TPI for fine work. Not surprisingly, I hate changing blades. Wondering if I could at least get away with a decent compromise between resaw and “general purpose”. Sunrise woodshop